14/01/2026
USING A LISHI
Using a Lishi 2-in-1 Pick and Decoder (common for automotive, residential like KW1/Kwikset, SC1/Schlage, etc.) is a game-changer for key supply work, especially for quick opens and making keys on the spot. These tools combine a pick and a decoder in one, so you can open the lock and read the bitting (cut depths) without disassembly in many cases.
Important disclaimer: Only use Lishi tools on locks you own, have permission to service, or as part of legitimate locksmith/key supply work. Misuse can be illegal.
Basic Step-by-Step: How to Pick with a Lishi Tool
Prep the lock
Clean out any debris/dirt from the keyway (compressed air or quick brush helps). Lubricate lightly if it's sticky (graphite or dry l**e — avoid WD-40). Make sure the plug is free to turn slightly.
Choose the correct Lishi tool
Match it to the keyway/profile (e.g., KW1 for Kwikset, SC1/SC4 for Schlage, HU101 for many Fords, etc.). Using the wrong one can damage the tool or lock.
Insert the tool properly
Ensure the lifter arm (the part that moves the pins/wafer) is fully down/lowered and tucked inside the tool tip.
Gently slide it in — never force it. If it binds, wiggle lightly or check orientation (most tools have a "top" side or marking). The tension arm/handle should be in the neutral/starting position.
Apply light turning tension
Use the built-in tension arm to apply very gentle rotational pressure (like you would with a tension wrench). Too much tension is the #1 beginner mistake — it binds everything up or pops pins back down. Start super light and adjust as needed.
Feel/test each position (pin or wafer)
The tool has numbered positions (usually 1–5/6/7/8/10 depending on the lock).
Go through each one with the lifter arm.
Springy/bouncy = not set yet (still under spring pressure).
Solid/stiff = binding or ready to set.
Push/lift gently until you feel a clear click (the shear line sets).
Move to the next. No particular order needed — just hunt the solid ones and ignore the bouncy ones initially.
Go back and re-check; some may reset if you over-tensioned.
Turn to open
Once all positions click/set, increase tension gently — the plug should turn (90° or 180° depending on lock). You've picked it!
Decoding (Reading the Cuts for Making a Key)
After picking (or sometimes while picking on some tools):
Keep light tension on the plug.
For each position, gently lift the wafer/pin up (or down — depends on the specific tool/lock; some like HU101 are opposite direction for decoding).
Watch the scale/grid on the tool (numbers or letters for cut depths).
The point where it stops/resists cleanly tells you the cut depth (e.g., 1–6 or A–F).
Write down the bitting (e.g., 3-1-4-2-5).
Some locks decode in the same direction as picking, others opposite — check your specific model's guide.
Pro Tips & Common Mistakes to Avoid
Tension is everything — Too much = pins pop back, tool binds, or you overpick. Too little = nothing sets. Vary it slightly to find the sweet spot.
Don't force anything — If the lifter won't move, back off tension or re-insert. Forcing bends expensive tools fast.
Practice first — Grab cheap practice locks (Kwikset/SC1 cylinders are great starters) or keyed-alike ones with known bittings. Feel what "set" vs "springy" really means.
Security pins/spools — Lishi can struggle more on high-security pin tumblers with spools (they over-set easily). Light tension and feel help.
Over-picking — If all feel springy after you thought you set them, you've likely pushed some too far — back off tension and start gentler.
Insertion damage — Always ensure the lifter is retracted before inserting.
Vehicle-specific — Many auto locks (esp. side-milled wafers) need very minimal tension and sometimes decode in opposite direction.
With practice, you'll be opening and decoding in under a minute on many common locks. It's not magic, but it sure feels like it once you get the feel!
If you're working on a specific model (like KW1, HU66, etc.), let me know — the exact feel/direction can vary a bit.
