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Gianni's Home Improvement, Paterson, NJ (2026)

08/25/2018

We have to start at an early age in order to change the world.

05/21/2012

HOW TO REPLACE AN ELECTRICAL PANEL

If you find that you need to replace an electrical panel in your home, then you may decide to call in an electrician who can do this all very quickly for you, or you might choose to try and replace your electrical panel yourself. While it might seem a little difficult at first, in fact, it is not that difficult, and so long as you have a few basic home improvement skills, you should be able to manage to do this easily. If you need to replace your electrical panel with a larger one, this can also be done, so long as you can have the power turned off. You may also find that you will get your work done more quickly and easily by doing it yourself.
Step 1 - Shutting off the Power
Before you attempt to make any changes to your electrical panel, you will need to ensure that the power is fully turned off. You will also need to get a permit from your local building authority. This should not be a problem, but you may need to have a buildings inspector around at the end of the project. Call your electricity supplier, and have them turn off the power. Use a voltmeter to check that the power is completely off before you begin. If the power is not off, then some of the wires will be live, which can give you a serious electric shock.
Step 2 - Securing the Wires
You will then need to make sure that you secure the wires which go to and from your electrical panel. Make sure that each wire is given a label and that you mark where they go so that you can quickly replace them once you have fitted the new electric panel. Each circuit connection will have up to three different wires: a live wire, which will have black insulation (occasionally red), a neutral wire, which has white insulation, and the grounding wire, which is either bare copper or has green insulation.
Step 3 - Removing the Breakers
Once the wires are gone, take out all of the breakers from the panel. These can often be removed simply by pressing on the metal sides of the panel. You can then take out the grounding wire, which is connected to the breaker bar. You may also have a neutral wire which is connected to a different bar. Take off the panel.
Step 4 - Adding the New Panel
You can now add the new panel. Use your screwdriver to screw the panel onto the wall. Add the wires to the various bars, and then add the breakers. Use your pliers to pull the wires back through the panel, using your labels to refer to the different connections. You should then be able to turn the power back on and check your electrical panel using your voltmeter.

04/05/2012

HOW TO BUILD A BACKYARD DECK

Prepare for the Project
Always check with local authorities about permits and regulations. Your homeowners association may have requirements about changes to the outside of your home, so make sure to clear your plans with them before proceeding. Always wear protective eyewear when working with power tools.
Plan the Dimensions
After measuring the dimensions of the yard, Adam helps center the placement of the deck using strings tied to wood stakes. Continually measure and adjust the stakes until the strings form a square and level representation of the deck dimensions
Mark the Ground
Next, using bright spray paint and little orange flags, they mark the ground to represent the deck's four corners and midpoints. These markings indicate the placement of the deck's eight concrete support posts, called caissons.
Break Ground
Temporarily remove the stakes and string and then use a power auger to quickly bore 15-inch holes at the marked locations . Remove any remaining dirt using a posthole digger
Form the Concrete
If the yard slopes slightly away from the house, the lower holes need extra height to reach the level string. To remedy this, cut a cardboard caisson tube to length and rest the segments on the lower holes. These now serve as concrete forms.
Pour Concrete
After mixing a batch of concrete, shovel it into the holes and lop off the excess using a spare wood stake . Before allowing the concrete to cure for 48 hours, embed a J-bolt into each caisson . Eventually, this will help tie down the deck.
Start the Deck Frame
Start by forming the perimeter and a center beam. After cutting several boards to length, screw treated lumber and redwood together to form double-thick perimeter boards. Because the center beam remains hidden, only use pressure-treated lumber. Nail on steel bracket ties to give lateral support and make both boards flush using an electric planer
Place the Main Boards
Keeping the more attractive redwood side out, fit the four perimeter boards onto anchor plates set on the caissons. Later, these anchors help permanently tie the deck down. With the main boards in place, secure them together by nailing on corner brackets
Finish the Frame
With the perimeter complete, finish out the frame by installing treated joists. After installing steel joist hangers at 16-inch intervals, set in the joists and nail them in
Install Decking Material
Having attached all the joists, finish up the deck by installing the decking material. To begin installation, start by squaring up the first piece of composite to the deck and attaching it to the underlying joists with composite decking screws . Continue screwing down the decking making sure to allow for a 1/4" gap between each plank. Attach several rows and stagger the cut seams for structural and aesthetic value
Complete the Deck
To complete the deck, permanently fasten the wood portions to the caissons by bolting down the anchor brackets and driving in nails through the perimeter.

04/04/2012

ALL ABOUT JOIST AND CONCRETE FLOOR STRUCTURES

Typically the building practices for residential construction vary according to region, availability of materials, and climate. Block houses, made of stone, concrete, or brick, are found more often in regions with older construction. When gutting an older block house to begin a major renovation, you may find that in addition to building new floors and walls, the shell of the house needs insulation and waterproofing to improve the home’s performance. Here are a few alternatives to a standard wood frame building.
Sawn Timber Joists Method
In this traditional floor construction, the ends of joists or beams are built into the walls of a block building, and are therefore directly supported by the wall structure. Sometimes joist ends rest on wooden wall plates secured to the wall surface. Old lumber joists secured within a wall may eventually become damp, and might need replacing over time. Joist size can vary according to the floor span, and this is an important consideration when building a new house or creating an addition.
Traditional Construction
Here, the joists are braced using herringbone struts and blocking, and are covered using straight-edged or tongue-and-groove boards.
Joist Hanging Method
In modern buildings, metal joist hangers are often used to support the joists. Joist depths, widths, and designs vary, so there is a wide range of hangers available to match. It is also an option to use joist hangers when renovating an old floor as these do not require large holes in walls, and are straightforward to fix.
Metal lateral joist straps are used to brace joists in position. One end of the strap is attached to the exterior wall, and the other end is attached to joists (either across or in line with them), to secure their position. Lateral joist straps are mainly used in new building projects.
Modern Construction
Here the joists are attached to the wall using joist hangers, and the joists are braced with lateral restraint straps and metal herringbone struts.
Further Information
Another alternative to wood frame construction is incorporating steel into the design. For example, steel beams are an alternative to wood girders. The wide fl**ge (commonly called I-beam) used most often in residential applications. The appropriate size of the beam is dependent on the calculated load of your house and the length of span.
Concrete Floors
Ground floors made from concrete have been common for many years in residential construction, but as concrete grows in popularity as a building material, upper floors also are being constructed from concrete. If you build an upper floor from concrete, you will most likely use concrete beams and blocks, as opposed to the slab we commonly find in basements and ground floors of homes without basements.
When preparing a bottom floor for concrete, it is essential to insulate and prepare the floor for moisture control. Your floor will need compacted fill, possibly a drain tile, v***r barrier, and perimeter insulation (see below) to effectively combat potential moisture problems. V***r barriers not only help keep the house sealed from moisture, but they also help speed the curing process of the concrete. A 6-mil polyethylene v***r barrier is laid over any mechanical systems, but the connections need to be accessible and above the finished floor level.
Pouring in the concrete and leveling it off by "eye" is possible, but it is far more accurate to create some shuttering within which a level floor can be laid. To achieve a smooth surface, concrete floors are usually covered with a topcoat of screed. Screed is a 3:1 mix of flooring sand and cement, and ready-mixed screed is available.
Floor Alignment
When altering floors — for example, in a renovation project where two rooms are to be made into one — you may need to align the floor level. To level between two concrete floors, adjust the screed using mortar or self-leveling compound, depending on the degree of change. Rather than leveling across a large area, you may need to build a small step. If there is only a small height difference, it may also be possible to simply create a small slope across the floor surface.
Solid Concrete Floor
The structure shown here is suitable for renovating or replacing an old floor. However, this type of structure is also used in new properties. In this case the damp-proof membrane would be lapped into the main wall structure.
Further Information
- The strength of your floor frame depends on the accuracy of your cuts and how well the pieces fit together.
- When building a floor frame, first set the trimmer joists in place. Joists are usually spaced at 16" on center. Headers are then attached before tail joists are installed.
- The parts of a floor frame can be assembled using a pneumatic nailer. Joist hangers and framing anchors can also be used.
- Caulking compound can help seal the joint between the header and the sill in colder climates.
- Wood is not always perfectly straight. Always lay the crown (hump) side of a board up when nailing it in place.
- While you are working on the floor frame, lay a piece of plywood across nearby joists to provide a more stable work area.

04/02/2012

TAKING CARE OF YOUR WATER DRAINAGE SYSTEM

Once you have a gutter system installed and proper grading around your foundation, the work's not over yet. The following are some maintenance tips that will keep your gutters and drainage system in proper working order.
• Make sure the gutters are firmly attached. A loose or broken fastener can change the slope and prevent the water from draining out of the troughs.
• Sectional gutters need to have the seams resealed with caulk or a sealant specially designed for gutters.
• Gutters can plug up with leaves, seeds and even needles from nearby evergreens, so it's important that you keep them cleaned out. Use a hose or a pressure washer to clear them out at least once a year, or more if there are lots of trees.
• If you seem to be constantly cleaning your gutters, you might consider installing some form of a gutter guard to keep the bigger leaves out. Just be aware that any gutter guard system has to have some openings in it to let water in, so seeds and other organic material will also get into the troughs and will need to be cleaned out periodically.
• Since over time, soil will compact or wash away with the seasons, it's important to maintain the grade of your property. Adding some soil along your foundation and sloping it away will help keep water out of your basement.
• All the rain hitting your house doesn't just hit the roof, and some will run down the sides and into your window wells. Covers will keep this water out of the wells, and stop it from soaking into the ground right beside your foundation walls.

Sometimes it seems like a basement attracts water like a magnet attracts iron filings. Keeping your gutters and downspouts clear and making sure you maintain the grading in your yard will break up that magnetic attraction. Even more important, it will help keep your basement warm and dry.

03/30/2012

GUIDE TO PROPER HOME DRAINAGE SYSTEMS
A cool, damp basement, musty smells, and maybe even mold or mildew on the walls are all indications of moisture getting into your basement. The main cause is likely poor drainage around your home that allows moisture to build up and remain in the soil around your foundation, and then work its way right through your foundation and into your home. Fixing drainage problems around your house can be a relatively inexpensive proposition, and they often come down to a couple of causes - how rainwater is handled and the grading or slope of your property.

Handling Rainwater

Gutters (or eavestroughs as they called in some parts of the country) are an important part of the drainage system around your house. If yours are nonexistent or in poor repair, or if the downspout empties right beside your house, they could be causing the problem.

Gutters need to be installed properly so that they will catch the water coming off your roof and channel it away from your house and foundation. Gutters should be installed with a downward slope of 1 inch for every 2 feet of run to ensure they drain completely. If your house is more than 35 feet wide, the optimal installation would have the gutters sloping down from a high point in the middle to a downspout at each end of the house.

All gutters need to be firmly attached (screws are best, since they won't back out over time) with the center of the downspout aligned under the lip of the roof. Gutters can be made up of sections of trough (usually 10 - 12 feet long), or installed as a long continuous piece up to 37 feet wide. If yours are in sections, make sure the seams are well sealed and water doesn't leak through. Gutters that leak are a problem not just because they drip water on your head, but because the drips land close to the foundation.

A downspout diverter directs water flowing from the downspout onto the driveway where it can't seep into the ground around the foundation. A hinge for this downspout would also help to get it out of the way of yard equipment.
Downspouts need to be large enough to handle the large amount of water that can come running off your roof in a heavy rainfall. The minimum size for a downspout should be 2 x 3 inches, but a larger size (like 3 x 4 inches) is even better. The larger size makes it less likely that anything will be able to block the downspout - even a tennis ball will drop right through, and you know water won't back up into your gutters during a heavy rain and possibly overflow.

At ground level, the water from your downspout should be directed at least 5 feet away from your house. It's best to have the water flowing onto a hard surface (like a driveway) or a fiberglass or concrete splashguard designed to spread the water and stop it from puddling on the ground. Flexible plastic diverters or hinge attachments for your downspout allow you to swing it up out of the way when cutting your lawn, so you're not constantly tripping over the downspout.

Proper Grading and Slope

Once the water is on the ground, it's important that it doesn't just sit there. This is where the grading of your property is important. Most building codes require that the ground around a foundation slope away from the foundation at a minimum of 6 inches in the first 10 feet and with another foot of slope in the next 100 feet. (This is a minimum - more slope will obviously help get water away from the foundation faster). Don't change the grading of your lot, and if you notice some low spots developing, be sure to fill them.

If you have a problem with water constantly accumulating in a particular area, you might consider installing a "French drain." A French drain is a small trench with a perforated pipe surrounded by sand or gravel that directs the water flow away from the foundation following the grade. Not only will it get the water away from the house, it will do it without any possibility of water runoff damage or erosion.

03/29/2012

HOW TO LAY CONCRETE BLOCKS

SELECT THE RIGHT BLOCKS FOR THE JOB
This figure shows a few of the many types of concrete blocks available for modern construction. Select the correct block for your job before starting the project. Your retailer will be glad to help you select the correct blocks if you need further direction.
All 8" blocks–the standard unit–are actually 7-5/8" in width. This allows for the thickness of the mortar on the finished job.
The standard unit is suitable for most projects. Half-blocks with square or rounded corners are often necessary at the end of a run.
Both single and double corner units provide a block that gives a smooth finish at the corner.
Jamb joist blocks are used around doorways.
Sash units provide an opening for casement windows, while header blocks are designed to provide a space for wooden supports or other structures at the top of a wall.
Other special blocks are available for almost any building requirement.
POURING THE FOOTING FOR A BLOCK WALL
Every block wall–regardless of height or length–should be placed on a secure footing of poured concrete. A block barbecue grill or outdoor fireplace requires a large concrete pad as a footing.
The footing should always be poured deep enough so that the base is below the frost line.
Always make the footing at least twice as deep as the thickness of the wall and twice as wide. For example, if you are using 8" blocks, the footing should be at least 8" deep and about 16" wide. This footing will provide a 4" rim on each side of the block when laid.
The form for such footings can be made from rough 2x4s, held in place by wooden stakes driven into the ground about every 3' to 4'.
For a footing poured in an area where drainage is a problem, lay a drain line along the outer edge of the form. Allow for a drop of about 1" for each 20' of drain line. Backfill over the drain line with about 12" of crushed stone or gravel.
Before you pour the footing, be sure it will not prevent the natural run-off of water and will not divert the flow of water onto any neighboring property.
If gas, electric or water supply lines must pass through the footing, you must make an opening. Do this by nailing together four pieces of 2x8 and laying them in the proper position before the footing is poured. In many cases, a 4" piece of drain tile will serve the same purpose. Mark the depth and location of the utility opening on your foundation plan or with a stake so you can find it easily later on.
For large concrete foundation jobs that cannot be finished with one pouring, divide the forms into sections you can handle. Complete one before proceeding to the next.
Make sure your footing is level by placing a level across the footings about every 8'. Adjust the height of the 2x4s by raising or lowering the stakes to make the 2x4s level on each side at all points around the footing.
Fill the form to the top edge, then level the freshly poured concrete by pulling a 2x4 or some other straightedge along the top of the form.
Work the straightedge back and forth–in a sawing motion–until the concrete is level. Fill in any low spots with additional concrete. Wipe away surplus concrete in the high spots.
Allow ample time for the concrete to dry fully. If the footing is to carry an extremely heavy load, drying may require up to three days.
ESTIMATING BLOCKS AND MORTAR NEEDED
This table will help you estimate the number of blocks and the amount of mortar you'll need for your job.
Use this table to help you estimate the number of blocks and mortar needed for your project.
Number of Concrete Blocks Required for Each Sq. Ft. of Wall
Based on 3/8" Mortar Joint
BLOCK SIZE BLOCKS PER 100 SQ. FT. OF WALL AREA
4 X 4 X 16 225
6 X 4 X 16 225
8 X 4 X 16 225
4 X 8 X 16 112-1/2
6 X 8 X 16 112-1/2
8 X 8 X 16 112-1/2
12 X 8 X 16 112-1/2
Mortar Needed for Concrete Blocks
BLOCK SIZE PER 100 SQ. FT. OF WALL AREA PER 100 BLOCKS
4" Blocks 13-1/2 Cu. Ft 6 Cu. Ft.
8" Blocks 8-1/2 Cu. Ft. 7-1/2 Cu. Ft.
Select the block size you will be using in the left-hand column. The right-hand column will show you the number of blocks and the amount of mortar required for the job.
You can also estimate for the number of blocks required by allowing three 8" blocks for every 4' on each course of blocks.
PREPARING TO LAY THE CONCRETE BLOCKS
Before starting to lay the blocks, drive stakes into the ground and build a form at each corner. These stakes and forms can be made from scrap pieces of wood used on the job.
Locate the exact corner by stretching lines from one corner form to the other as illustrated. The exact corner will be the point at which the two lines cross.
Drop a plumb bob down from each line, both at the corner point where the lines cross and at positions about 2' out in each direction.
Determine the exact number of blocks required for the first course by laying out a course of block on the dry concrete. Do not use mortar for this test run–you are merely determining the number of blocks required for the job.
Be sure to use the corner blocks where needed, and cut blocks as required.
Use scrap pieces of 3/8" plywood to fill in the mortar joint between each block. This is the thickness of the mortar when applied.
After this test run, remove the blocks and prepare for the actual laying of the first course.
LAYING THE CONCRETE BLOCKS
Drop plumb bobs down from the corner string and at positions about 3' out from the corner. Mark the location of the corner block on the footing base as shown.
Spread the mortar out about 1" deep and 8" wide in the marked area. Extend this mortar out for a distance of about three or four blocks in one direction.
Put a furrow in the center of the mortar with a trowel. This furrow will force the mortar to the edge of the block when it is laid.
Set the corner block first. Be sure you are using the correct block (finished end).
Check the starting corner block, both horizontally and vertically, and take time to get it positioned correctly. All other blocks will align with this starter block, so it's very important to set it exactly.
Follow this same procedure as you reach the other corners, laying the first course out about two or three blocks in each direction.
Tie a line between two bricks and stretch it between the two corner blocks on the first course.
Continue to lay the base mortar on the footing as the course continues. Apply mortar to the ends of the blocks with a trowel and place the block in position.
Keep all mortar joints at about 3/8". If necessary to make spacing adjustments, fill some mortar joints 1/2" to 3/4".

If you must cut a block to fill a course, use a masonry chisel as illustrated. Draw a line on both sides of the block where the cut is to be made. Strike the chisel with a bricklayer's hammer. You will soon learn to make such cuts easily.

After you've laid four or five blocks, use a long mason's level or some type of straightedge to check the alignment of the blocks. Check both the tops of the blocks and the outside edge for correct alignment.
Tap the blocks into position to make any alignment corrections while the mortar is still wet. Never attempt to move a block after the concrete begins to set.
Build up the corners first. Always keep the corners about a block or two higher than other runs until you finish the job.
Keep the guidelines between the corners at all times. They will help you keep the blocks level at all points in each course. Be careful not to knock the lines out of alignment.
Always keep the guidelines tight. If one side gets bumped out of position, take a minute to level it.
Use a trowel to cut away any surplus mortar. Throw the surplus mortar back onto the mortarboard. Keep turning the mortar with your trowel throughout the project so small portions will not harden.
Use a piece of 3/4" ply-board or the bed of a wheelbarrow as a mortarboard. Always wet the board or the wheelbarrow bed before placing the mortar in it.
Never mix more mortar than you can use in about an hour and a half or two hours. On a hot day, keep the mortar covered with a piece of plastic to hold in moisture.
Use as much water as the mortar will take and still remain elastic.
Continue to stagger the blocks–working from the corners–and build the wall to the desired height.
Take time to level each course. Use a level that is at least 3' long.
Lay all blocks with the thicker end of the face shell up.
Keep a leveling string at the top of each course on each run of block.
Measure both the length and the height of the wall after every two or three runs. Also, hold your level diagonally along the block corners to check for accuracy. If the blocks are being laid accurately, the corners will strike evenly along a level held in this position.
After all the blocks are laid and while the mortar can still be pressed with the fingers, take a jointer and finish the mortar joints to the appearance desired. Keep the jointer wet during this part of the job.
You may need to add reinforcing rods to walls built extremely high or in areas where ground pressures may vary.
Lay 1/4" reinforcing rods as illustrated, with the ends overlapped 2" to 3". Mortar can be placed directly over the rods.

If wood framing will be attached to the top run, set an anchor bolt every 3' to 4' in the last run.

If a load-bearing wall intersects with the outside wall, it should be tied to the main wall with metal tie bars. Bars as shown should be set in place on at least every other run.
Non-load-bearing walls connecting to main walls can be tied in by laying a 16" strip of 1/2" mesh galvanized hardware cloth directly on top of the block.
A strip of this cloth should be used for every other course at the tie-in point.
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Gianni's Home Improvement REPAIR A LEAKY FAUCET

03/28/2012

REPAIR A LEAKY FAUCET
Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that closes onto a metal washer seat. The washer can become hardened, worn or the seat wears, causing the faucet to leak. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases the internal damage to the faucet.
To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If there's a shutoff valve beneath the fixture, turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in the basement, utility room, or crawlspace. Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.
Take the faucet apart by removing the handle (this may not be necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish. And take special care with the plastic parts found on many modern faucets. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem. Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the "on" direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it. Clean chips from the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.
Examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn, take it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if it's dirty.
Now look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the stem and held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it–this should stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your dealer to ensure an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, too, replace it with a new brass screw.
The washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably can't determine if the washer seat is causing the leak just by looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer replacement obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool is not costly. Every home with washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool according to the manufacturer's directions, placing it in the faucet along with the packing nut. Then rotate until the seat is smooth, and blow out the chips.
Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced. Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a screwdriver; if so, it is replaceable. However, if the seat simply has a round hole through its center and no slots, it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool.
To replace it, you'll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Add a little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove during future repairs.
It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer A swiveling washer is preferable. To install washer, file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless action – this allows it to outlast fixed washers.
Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be like new. Put the parts back together in the reverse order of taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.
If the faucet leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You may want to install one of the newer nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings–their lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut. Use three complete wraps if you're applying string-type packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these stems, replace the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut, then tighten it another half-turn.
REPAIRING A NOISY FAUCET
A noisy washer-type faucet is usually caused by a loose seat washer. To stop the noise, first turn off the water and take the faucet apart as described previously. If the washer is loose, tighten it or replace it.
After threading the stem back into the faucet body, try moving it up and down. If it moves, the stem is worn and the entire faucet must be replaced.
Some faucets are noisy due to poor design and construction. The only way to solve this problem is to replace the faucet with a quality one.
REPAIRING WASHER-TYPE BATH AND SHOWER FAUCETS
To take apart a bath/shower faucet for repair, first turn off the water. Then take the faucet apart by removing its handle, escutcheon and packing nut. The packing nut may be buried deeply in the wall, requiring a socket wrench for removal.
Your bath and shower faucets may have a renewable seat that can be smoothed with a seat-dressing tool or removed and replaced using a seat wrench. For replacing and repacking the washer, follow the same instructions provided for a washer-type faucet. Some faucets may need a complete replacement of the combination stem/seat unit.
WASHERLESS FAUCETS
A leak in a washerless faucet usually indicates that the working parts need replacing. Often, prepackaged repair kits are available. Kits may contain all the necessary parts, or may include only the specific parts that need replacing. Follow the instructions for installing the replacement parts. Washerless faucets on tubs and showers are repaired in the same way as those on sink and washbasins.
DIAPHRAGM-TYPE FAUCETS
The diaphragm faucet is washerless but is similar to washer-type faucets. A rubber diaphragm between the stem and seat creates a straight-down, frictionless close. As with washer-type faucets, diaphragm faucets have two handles.
Remove the stem by following the steps outlined for washer-type faucets. Instead of a washer on the end of the stem, you'll find a swiveling disc. If the rubber diaphragm doesn't come out with the stem, it is still inside the faucet.
If the diaphragm didn't come out with the stem, use pliers to peel it from inside the faucet and pull it out. Install a new diaphragm around the swiveling disc, then replace the stem in the faucet.
If the faucet is leaking around the stem, replace the stem's O-ring before reinstalling the stem.
DISC-TYPE FAUCETS
Disc faucets may have one or two handles. The water is controlled by openings in the two discs. When the discs are rotated to align, the water flows; when the discs are misaligned, the water shuts off. If the discs wear, the worn discs cause the faucet to leak. Simply turning the handles harder will not stop the leak.

To repair a leak in a two-handle disc faucet, turn off the water and remove the handle on the side that's leaking.

Use pliers to pull the disc assembly out of the faucet.

Beneath the disc unit is the seat assembly, or seal. Replacing this special O-ring may stop the leak.

You may need to install a whole new disc assembly for faucets that have been used over a long period of time. In this case, all moving parts of the faucet will have been replaced and should last as long as the original discs did. The parts of some disc units snap apart into a separate bonnet assembly and bottom cap.

To repair a leaking single-handle disc, turn off both the hot and cold water and remove the handle to expose the disc assembly. Take out the screws to lift the assembly out of the faucet.

You'll notice that beneath the disc unit are three O-ring seals. Though unlikely, water could be leaking between the unit and one of these seals. In this case, you may be able to stop the leak by cleaning the disc assembly and faucet body and installing a new set of seals. If that doesn't work, the entire disc unit must be replaced. This will renew all moving parts.

Replacing the unit is fairly simple. Place the three O-rings into their recesses in the bottom of the disc unit. Then install the unit and tighten the screws. Finally, replace the handle–and you're done!
BALL-TYPE SINGLE-LEVER FAUCETS
The single-handle faucet with a ball inside to control both hot and cold water may either leak at the spigot or at the handle. A handle leak is usually caused by improper adjusting-ring tension. Simply adjust the tension to stop the leak. Leaks at the handle can also result from a worn cam gasket. Dripping from the spigot is usually caused by worn spring-loaded, soft rubber seat assemblies.
Parts for ball-type faucets are available in kits. Get the spring/seats kit for spigot leaks, or the complete kit for handle leaks. It may be advisable to use the complete kit to replace all working parts of the faucet at the same time. In any case, you'll need a kit containing the spanner/hex wrench for removing the handle (hex end) and turning the adjusting ring (spanner end).
Without turning the water off, loosen the handle set screw. Slide the handle from its stem.
For a handle leak, try using the spanner wrench to tighten the adjusting collar. Tighten it by turning the wrench and collar clockwise until the faucet doesn't leak when it is turned on and off. If the adjustment is too loose, the faucet will leak. If you turn it too tight, the handle will be hard to move. When the adjusting ring cannot be turned with the wrench, it is corroded. At this point, you will need to remove the cap to free the adjusting ring. You must turn the water off before removing the cap! Apply penetrating oil to the threads, remove the ring and clean all parts before reassembling.
Install the seats. For faucet leaks at the spigot, you must install new rubber seats and springs. You must turn off the water to make this repair. Unscrew the chrome cap by turning it counterclockwise. If it won't turn easily, wrap electrical tape around the cap and turn it with pliers. The adjusting ring, which is threaded into the cap's center, will come off with it. For a seats/springs replacement, pull the ball up and out by its stem. The gasketed cam will come with it. Now you can locate the two rubber seats and springs inside the faucet body. Remove them with pliers or yours fingers and install the new ones. The springs go into the holes first, and the cupped sides of the seats fit over the springs.
Service the ball. If the ball is dirty or coated with scale, clean it or replace it with a new one. Both plastic and brass balls are available, but use a plastic one if your home has hard water.
Reassembly. Put the ball and cam back into the faucet with the slot in the side if the ball fitting over the pin in the faucet body. Then make sure the tab on the cam slips down into the notch in the body. Not aligning the tab and notch is the number one cause for a faucet leaking after it is repaired. Finally, screw on the cap and adjust the ring as described in Step 2. If a properly adjusted ball-type faucet leaks at the cap, the cam and gasket must be replaced.
Swing spouts. If a single-lever ball faucet leaks at the base, you should replace the O-rings. Remove the spout-retaining parts, as well as the spout. Wrap the spout-retaining nut with electrical tape to protect it, and remove the nut with a wrench or pliers by turning counterclockwise. Remove the spout by pulling it up and side-to-side. One or more O-rings should now be exposed. Take the O-rings to your hardware or home center store to get matching O-rings for replacement. Clean any scale that appears on the spout base, faucet body, and the inside of the swinging spout. Install the new O-rings and reverse the steps above to reassemble the faucet.
CARTRIDGE FAUCETS
Cartridge faucets have only one moving part. The stem slides up and down to open and close the faucet and rotates to regulate the flow of hot and cold water. Any leaking requires replacement of the cartridge.
First, turn off the water. To remove the cartridge, you'll need to remove the handle. This project can be like working a puzzle. If you have the manufacturer's instruction sheet for the faucet, you're ahead of the game. Without it, look for a retainer clip at the rear of the faucet just below the handle. Or, you may have to remove a set screw or snap-in "hot-cold" button and a handle pin or screw. On some faucets the swing spout must come off first. The retainer clip may be hiding beneath the handle inside a lift-out tube. Some cartridge faucets use two retainer clips–one by the handle and another by the cartridge. Retainer clips can be pried out with a screwdriver.
Once the retainer clip is removed, the cartridge simply pulls out. Use pliers, as shown. Install the new cartridge by pushing it into place with the flat arrow, or other mark upward. If you use a lubricant on the cartridge, make sure it's silicone grease.

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