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Latemore Design, 59 Chermside Street, Brisbane (2026)

28/05/2026

𝗚𝗘𝗧𝗧𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗥𝗢𝗢𝗙 𝗪𝗔𝗧𝗘𝗥 𝗔𝗪𝗔𝗬
This week’s post is talking about your gutters and downpipes. We thought this one might be of interest after all the rain we've had during May.
You probably take them for granted but gutters and downpipes are a very essential part of buildings. They ensure that the rain on your roof is collected and taken away, so the house is not inundated.
There is another factor – roof water is required to be taken to a ‘legal point of discharge’ as it is called. This is mostly the street kerb. There is more to this and that has been in other posts, including talking about rubble pits in the backyard, Bandwidth charging to the street kerb.
How much water comes off your roof? Quite a lot. In Brisbane we receive roughly 1 metre of rainfall annually. On a small house with only 100sqm of roof, that equates to 100,000 litres. Which is enough for an average household of water use if you have tanks on acreage.
We can receive a fair proportion of rainfall in a short period. For example, the recent 40 millimetres of rain that occurred within one hour. So, the gutters and downpipes need to deal with a bit of roof water.
When it comes down hard, the rain can overflow the gutters and we recommend using traditional quad gutters that have the outer edge lower than the internal side. The standard is 150 millimetres wide, but we sometimes go for 175. The high sided square-line gutters with slots can fail, being smaller, and if that is your preference we strongly suggest having 50% more downpipes. It is not good if the gutter overflows to the inside through the eaves or even worse into the house if there are no eaves.
Most older houses do not have enough downpipes, and this includes houses up to about 2000. The rule of thumb is downpipes at 8m max centres and draining 40sqm max of roof, preferably 35sqm max. Did you know that going from a 90 dia downpipe to 100 dia increases its capacity by an amazing 25%? Consider bigger pipes!
This post was created by humans!
Peter Latemore and his team are local Building Designers, specializing in Queenslanders, including post-war, amongst all building types. Based in Grange, as Latemore Design, 3356 9051, [email protected], ABN 39 010 895 682. Servicing the inner regions within 12kms of Brisbane CBD. QBCC 1055247.
If you would like to see more projects - https://latemoredesign.com.au/
Looking for past posts? Go to our page - https://www.facebook.com/latemoredesign

22/05/2026

𝗕𝗢𝗫 𝗔𝗡𝗗 𝗩𝗔𝗟𝗟𝗘𝗬 𝗚𝗨𝗧𝗧𝗘𝗥𝗦
We thought we might revisit this topic from a few years ago, as there has been so much rain this year, right through Autumn.
There are occasions when a box gutter cannot be avoided. Sometimes an added roof has to start at an existing gutter line, as with older heritage type houses. A raised roof at the rear of a building can also require a box gutter if the geometry of the roof needs to match the existing roof. The best idea, of course is to not use box gutters, but with careful design and thinking they can work very well.
How do they work?
A box gutter is an oversized catchment device to ensure roof water heads out and away. They must be designed by a Hydraulics Engineer using specific calculation methods for rainfall intensity and water flow. They tend to over design them, to handle such odd events as hailstones blocking things, or some leaves in the gutter.
The smallest box gutter we have used is 100mm deep by 200mm wide. The largest was 200mm deep by 600mm wide.
All box gutters must lead into a rain head. These are essentially large funnels that ensure the box gutter does not overflow and directs the water into the downpipe. The trick with a rain head is to place the spitter, or outlet, level with the bottom of the box gutter, not the top of the rain head, otherwise the box gutter could overflow back into the ceilings.
Valley gutters are similar to box gutters in that they collect a lot of roof water into a narrow channel confined within the roof area. The National Construction Code requires valley gutters to be designed like box gutters when the roof pitch is under 12 degrees. The Hydraulics Engineer will also design the valley gutter in the same way as the box gutter.
We always recommend that regular inspections of box gutters is very necessary, and that is why they are usually built on ply flooring so that you can walk along them.
Four of the images are details from a project that had three box gutters. One of the pictures shows the rain heads.
This post was created by humans!
Peter Latemore and his team are local Building Designers, specializing in Queenslanders, including post-war, amongst all building types. Based in Grange, as Latemore Design, 3356 9051, [email protected], ABN 39 010 895 682. Servicing the inner regions within 12kms of Brisbane CBD. QBCC 1055247.
If you would like to see more projects - https://latemoredesign.com.au/
Looking for past posts? Go to our page - https://www.facebook.com/latemoredesign

14/05/2026

CARPORTS - AN UPDATE
We thought it might be time to let you know that some changes for carports are coming in Queensland and with some extra restrictions in Brisbane.
Let’s start with Brisbane. From late 2026, there are some subtle revisions coming, but the biggest one is a push towards having double carports (6m wide) only on sites that are 15 metres wide or greater. Currently there is an allowance that the carport can be 50% of the site width. There are still extra restrictions when it comes to traditional character sites, such as on a 10m wide small lot, accepted development includes a 6x3m carport only. On a non-character narrow small lot, BCC is pushing back on the possibility of a double carport with 5m post spacing, ie 50% of 10m site width.
Now to Qld overall. QHC, Queensland Housing Code, will be replacing two parts of QDC, Queensland Development Code. In general, one of the bigger changes is the idea to encourage bigger backyards, so houses can be less than 6m from front boundaries. It looks like 3m might be allowed. But what about cars and carports? Because cars need a bit under 6m. One item in the new code talks about garages being 5.4m from the front boundary so that a car can sit on the site without hanging over the footpath. This is exactly what Moreton Shire already does. In effect, in future, a house can be 3m setback from front boundary, but the garage will be 5.4 back. Carports currently are supposed to be 3m min setback, without a siting relaxation. But QHC looks like allowing zero setback, as of right, to encourage more back yard. The minimum side setback, as of right, looks like being dropped from 750mm down to 200mm, particularly for structures that can be near a boundary such as garages and carports. QHC is going to insist that one of the two required car spaces on site is in a carport or garage. As mentioned about backyards but not related to carports, the rear setback is growing from 1.5m to 4m.
Not yet announced, but during industry consultation, the QHC may also look into the aesthetics of carports. The bulkiness of wide carports with large gables has been mentioned. There is a general interest in ensuring the house is the major element on the site, not the carport.
In general, things look like they are going to be a little better for things like carports, especially in QHC. BCC is toughening things a little.
Today we are including a few of our arbour style carports, which obviously suit aspects of the changes that are and could be coming.
In the photos are four of our arbour style carports in the local region. Thank you, Phil, Damien, & Nicole. As you can see, these are less imposing to the street, and allow the main structure, the house, to still shine through. There are all sorts of ways to use the general arbour principal, like stepping the structure, using entry statements, having interesting end treatments and using vertical screening methodologies.
This post was created by humans!
Peter Latemore and his team are local Building Designers, specializing in Queenslanders, including post-war, amongst all building types. Based in Grange, as Latemore Design, 3356 9051, [email protected], ABN 39 010 895 682. Servicing the inner regions within 12kms of Brisbane CBD. QBCC 1055247.
If you would like to see more projects - https://latemoredesign.com.au/
Looking for past posts? Go to our page - https://www.facebook.com/latemoredesign

08/05/2026

𝗜𝗡𝗙𝗥𝗔𝗦𝗧𝗥𝗨𝗖𝗧𝗨𝗥𝗘 𝗧𝗛𝗔𝗧 𝗚𝗘𝗧𝗦 𝗜𝗡 𝗧𝗛𝗘 𝗪𝗔𝗬
Today we are going to discuss the four usual Infrastructure items that can hinder design planning. Of course, there are many others and these can be found on Before You Dig Australia, BYDA. Sewer, house connection, storm water, gas, telecommunications.
The most classic one is the water meter. This is located close to your front boundary. You cannot build a driveway over a water meter, although it was allowed 15 years ago if converted to a trafficable box. There are 2 choices: move your driveway and carport location or apply to the water utility authority to move the water meter. The second option will cost a few thousand dollars and can be a cost-effective solution when other factors may come into play, such as a street tree.
Street trees are often not considered when thinking about a project in the early stages. Any works must be kept between 2-3 metres from these trees, depending on their root structure. If the tree is very young, there is a possibility of applying to council to have it removed. If the tree is larger, there is the chance of obtaining an arborist’s report on options.
A trap for punters is the overhead electricity power line onto your house. If the house is lifted, that wire must be removed and reinstated by Energex. This will take considerable lead time to both remove and reinstate. There is a chance that Energex will insist on a separate pole on the front corner of your property, instead of reinstating the line. If any new structure is located underneath the power line, like a carport, it must be relocated. This can be done on the front of a carport for example, but only if the height suits the minimum requirements from Energex. If this cannot be met the separate pole comes into play.
One of the more unusual infrastructure items is the old combine drain. When Brisbane was originally sewered, it was easier to occasionally combine between 2 to 5 properties into one sewer connection. This made sense at the time as there was usually only one bathroom and toilet on each property. If any works are proposed, the authorities must be approached with a plumbing application, and then there is the possibility that all properties will be required to have their own separate connection. This entails parallel lines running through properties usually to a manhole. Sometimes the combine drain can remain but will require upgrade within your property. This can influence your neighbours use of the sanitary line for a while.
There are a few of the infrastructure items that can influence design options. Your designer or architect will know what to do with them.
This post was created by humans!
Peter Latemore and his team are local Building Designers, specializing in Queenslanders, including post-war, amongst all building types. Based in Grange, as Latemore Design, 3356 9051, [email protected], ABN 39 010 895 682. Servicing the inner regions within 12kms of Brisbane CBD. QBCC 1055247.
If you would like to see more projects - https://latemoredesign.com.au/
Looking for past posts? Go to our page - https://www.facebook.com/latemoredesign

30/04/2026

𝗦𝗛𝗢𝗨𝗟𝗗 𝗬𝗢𝗨 𝗘𝗫𝗖𝗔𝗩𝗔𝗧𝗘 𝗨𝗡𝗗𝗘𝗥 𝗬𝗢𝗨𝗥 𝗛𝗢𝗨𝗦𝗘?
A few site consults in recent times have been discussing what to do underneath existing houses. The conversation usually starts with – can we lift our house and build in another level?
Sometimes the answer is no, because it costs quite a bit as you are effectively doubling the size of the house.
On occasion, people are wanting more space that is not necessarily habitable, ie for storage and cars. Simply contemplating an excavation and tidying up may be enough. What do we mean by this?
Most older houses are elevated enough to handle some of this excavation, even if they are on a slope. Rock is usually about a metre or so underneath Brisbane sites, so digging can be contemplated without needing rock breakers. Some sites have more shale type of rock that is easy enough to dig away at the front face of it, rather than directly down into it. Such works don’t need to be elegant and exposed block retaining walls to hold the ground back are sufficient. A slab can then go down which makes everything tidy and very usable.
As part of this, opening up spaces by removing old concrete and timber stumps creates good volumes and borrows the idea of a lifted and built-in building at a significantly lower cost. You can reduce the dusty environment by adding short walls above the retaining walls up to the floor above. Windows are also possible. A garage door will enable the space to be used for cars, and provide good security an access for things like workshop use.
Depending upon your individual needs, this new space can be very usable for all sorts of needs. Not just cars, but storage for things like garden equipment, bicycles, bulk storage for camping, general bulk storage, and the biggest one is always a workshop space. Such usages are considered non-habitable by the way, and they can legally have a 2.1m ceiling height.
Any excavation requires careful thought in relation to groundwater, both above and within. Dish-drains, storm water pits, ag drains etc need to be considered and may need help from a hydraulics engineer.
This post was created by humans!
Peter Latemore and his team are local Building Designers, specializing in Queenslanders, including post-war, amongst all building types. Based in Grange, as Latemore Design, 3356 9051, [email protected], ABN 39 010 895 682. Servicing the inner regions within 12kms of Brisbane CBD. QBCC 1055247.
If you would like to see more projects - https://latemoredesign.com.au/
Looking for past posts? Go to our page - https://www.facebook.com/latemoredesign

23/04/2026

𝗦𝗧𝗘𝗘𝗟 𝗢𝗥 𝗧𝗜𝗠𝗕𝗘𝗥 𝗙𝗥𝗔𝗠𝗘?
In recent months we talked about steel framing so today we will attempt to compare the two types of framing.
Both are structurally sound and as good as each other. The differences are, the practitioner who is working with the framing on site, the preference of the owner and the fixings that are used in both.
Steel framing uses bolts and tek screws, with every frame prefabricated. Timber framing uses a mix of nails and batten screws along with nailing plates, again some prefabricated but not everything.
Follow on trades, such as plumbers and electricians, can appreciate both systems. The steel framing has lots of precut holes whereby timber is easy to cut but can be more time consuming to run the pipes and wires. Steel or timber trusses in the roof work really well in either system.
Roof battens have gradually become only steel over the years. This is because they are light to transport and use, very easy to install, and have excellent fixings both for timber or steel frame and for the steel roof itself. Tiled rooves also work well with steel roof battens.
Steel framing is lighter than timber which can be a major influence, especially on certain sites. A lighter frame places less load on footings, but in general the frame mass is not a big influence on most sites’ foundations.
Hot rolled steel beams are much smaller than an equivalent span in timber, which is a huge benefit when designing buildings. The industry these days is very advanced in how to interact between the light steel framing or timber framing in combination with these steel beams. Admittedly the steel beams are considerably heavier than timber to install though and can require individually larger footings.
There is always the combination of a fair bit of hot rolled steel with either steel or timber lighter framing, but the most common is timber. Our Belvedere is a good example of that and we have included a photograph of it under construction, as it had a very considerable amount of steel posts and beams in combination with timber, so that it could achieve its height without much bracing.
If you are considering which framing to use, remember that termites don’t eat steel, but modern chemical treatments of timber have solved this. Sometimes it comes down to availability.
𝘛𝘩𝘪𝘴 𝘱𝘰𝘴𝘵 𝘸𝘢𝘴 𝘤𝘳𝘦𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘥 𝘣𝘺 𝘩𝘶𝘮𝘢𝘯𝘴!
Peter Latemore and his team are local Building Designers, specializing in Queenslanders, including post-war, amongst all building types. Based in Grange, as Latemore Design, 3356 9051, [email protected], ABN 39 010 895 682. Servicing the inner regions within 12kms of Brisbane CBD. QBCC 1055247.
If you would like to see more projects - https://latemoredesign.com.au/
Looking for past posts? Go to our page - https://www.facebook.com/latemoredesign

16/04/2026

𝗪𝗔𝗡𝗧𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗔 𝗡𝗘𝗪 𝗛𝗢𝗨𝗦𝗘 𝗜𝗡 𝗔 𝗖𝗛𝗔𝗥𝗔𝗖𝗧𝗘𝗥 𝗭𝗢𝗡𝗘?
What if the new house you want to build is in an older character area? This can also relate to non-character areas such as outer suburbs of Brisbane and across Moreton Bay because replacement housing is certainly happening in those areas.
Every so often there is a spare block in the region which for inner Brisbane will have the traditional character overlay on it. This is not the end of the world and in fact can encourage great design. The principles within the broader dwelling house codes of both Brisbane and Moreton do encourage good design as well.
You can still have a modern look with the use of some traditional characteristics. These include verandahs, but not necessarily heritage style handrails. Window and door shapes can be broken up into similar sizes to the old but still have modern features, such as screening. Tall louvre windows are an excellent modern response to the old tall double hung windows, and casements that were used from the 1930s right up to the 1970s.
A new house is usually 2 storeys, whereas the old were elevated single storey, even into the 1960’s. As such, it can be challenging how to make the entry and stairs work and still respect traditional housing. Something we find thoughtful is placing the entry door on the lower level but behind a porch or under a verandah. This door placement also suits livability rules, which requires a zero-threshold access into the building. Traditional stairs can be placed on the upper level of a new house and follow the old principle of living on the upper level.
The temptation with a new house is to push its walls to the minimum side setbacks. We suggest having slightly more space, similar to older houses, because you gain valuable light and ventilation plus space for vegetation. Pulling back from the allowed 50% site cover will give the family more outdoor space.
Increased side setbacks allow greater roof overhangs and the possibility of window awnings. In our climate it is not only the sun but also heavy rain to contend with. This also makes the house more articulated and appealing.
Our photos today illustrate a new house in the traditional character area. This was done a little while ago before the three-storey max rule came into place. But you get the idea of having a reduced footprint and more space around the building. It is an unusual house because the major deck is at the front where there are great views across a park and good breezes.
Peter Latemore and his team are local Building Designers, specializing in Queenslanders, including post-war, amongst all building types. Based in Grange, as Latemore Design, 3356 9051, [email protected], ABN 39 010 895 682. Servicing the inner regions within 12kms of Brisbane CBD. QBCC 1055247.
If you would like to see more projects - https://latemoredesign.com.au/
Looking for past posts? Go to our page - https://www.facebook.com/latemoredesign
This post was created by a human!

10/04/2026

𝗖𝗔𝗡 𝗬𝗢𝗨 𝗠𝗢𝗩𝗘 𝗧𝗛𝗘 𝗕𝗔𝗧𝗛𝗥𝗢𝗢𝗠?
The answer is yes on almost every house, even if it is on a slab.
There is a little bit of a misconception that bathrooms cost a lot to move, but it is the actual cost of the fit out of a bathroom that matters, much more than the moving aspect. The plumbing pipes are some of the cheapest items in the building.
If the house is elevated it is very easy to run the pipework anywhere as it can be hung underneath the floor framing. Of course, if your house already has been built in under, some ceilings will have to be cut down and then reinstated.
When it comes to slabs, admittedly this can be a bit messy, with diamond tipped saws, but it is straightforward. The trick we have worked out with our clever engineers, is to cut up the entire slab where the new bathroom will be located, plumber lays the pipework and then reinstate the rectangle of the slab.
When it comes to Queenslander houses those existing bathrooms are often in a lean-to in the northeast or northwestern corner. Why did they do this?
Simple really, because most of these houses had some sort of verandah so it was easier to put them out there. Later versions built the space for the bathroom early on in anticipation of future sewage infrastructure and for a while all they had was a basin in the corner and a steel tub which was fed from a rainwater tank. The loo was a much later addition during the sixties, and they were always put on the back-stair landing. 50s and 60s houses usually had the bathroom and toilet, planned inside the house, still with rainwater tanks for the water, and usually had septic systems.
Plumbing is easily moved, especially in a timber framed house. We usually find that a kitchen is better placed in the lean-to zones where the bathrooms were often placed, in Queenslanders. 50’s and 60’s houses, the bathroom is usually with the bedrooms and can be OK and just needs a good refurbishment. One thing we are never fond of is showers over baths because it is a little bit dangerous.
So where do you put the bathroom in a Queenslander? One answer is to add a new master wing with its own ensuite and robe and convert a bedroom into a family bathroom with storage.
In the photos we have three examples of adding a bathroom to an old house. The lighter one is a conversion of a bedroom into a generous family bathroom, with a short privacy corridor. The darker tiled one is within what once may have been a verandah but was enclosed decades ago, and sits adjacent to the master bed. The one with the heritage floor tiles was placed within a bedroom, and has a door to the main bedroom, so it doubles as an ensuite. As part of doing these, we had to strengthen the joists under the floor. The first photo shows what a bathroom can look like after the slab has been fully cut away and replaced and even has grab rails.
Peter Latemore and his team are local Building Designers, specializing in Queenslanders, including post-war, amongst all building types. Based in Grange, as Latemore Design, 3356 9051, [email protected], ABN 39 010 895 682. Servicing the inner regions within 12kms of Brisbane CBD. QBCC 1055247.
If you would like to see more projects - https://latemoredesign.com.au/
Looking for past posts? Go to our page - https://www.facebook.com/latemoredesign

26/03/2026

𝗪𝗛𝗬 𝗜𝗦 𝗜𝗧 𝗚𝗢𝗢𝗗 𝗕𝗘𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗔 𝗕𝗨𝗜𝗟𝗗𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗗𝗘𝗦𝗜𝗚𝗡𝗘𝗥?
Over the last couple of years quite a few clients have been asking why do we like being Building Designers? I keep saying that I love the job and apparently that is a little rare in general.
So, this week we thought - why not talk about this little question?
One thing that I often say is I see what we do as a rare privilege. Who else gets to make someone happy? Because that is what we are doing, by creating buildings, mostly houses, that people end up enjoying life in.
I see our real job as not just drawing production, and understanding the plethora of rules and regulations, but a responsibility to the built environment and the people who live and work in the buildings. In a sense, we are fulfilling people's dreams, and not many people can say that!
Something that we are known for, being realistic about options and budget, assists in making people happy. This is because the chances of the project being built increase dramatically if realistic expectations of DA and building approval along with costings, are being considered from day one.
Every time I come across a youngster who is considering building design or architecture as a possible career choice, I usually ask them what is it about the professions that excites them. If I hear that they're fascinated by the way buildings are put together, and how wonderful spaces are created, along those lines, I always encourage them to look further into it.
There is something very exciting about how building technologies and the way we produce drawings, has changed over the 45 years that I have been in the game. When I started in the 1970s who would have thought that we would be playing with virtual buildings inside a computer? The freedom that this can provide along with the remarkable drawings that can be produced is quite staggering. Things like CLT, large slabs of laminated timber, that have emerged, will be transformative to the industry. Being able to power your own house with solar panels and batteries was thought about in the 1970s but now that it is here, it is simply marvellous. Not to mention all the marvellous labour-saving materials that are available to us like large wall panels and panelised construction.
So, there is a little explanation of why we love our job!
The pictures today are illustrating some fun legacy projects from a while back to more recently.
Peter Latemore and his team are local Building Designers, specializing in Queenslanders, including post-war, amongst all building types. Based in Grange, as Latemore Design, 3356 9051, [email protected], ABN 39 010 895 682. Servicing the inner regions within 12kms of Brisbane CBD. QBCC 1055247.
If you would like to see more projects - https://latemoredesign.com.au/
Looking for past posts? Go to our page - https://www.facebook.com/latemoredesign

19/03/2026

𝗦𝗛𝗢𝗨𝗟𝗗 𝗬𝗢𝗨 𝗘𝗫𝗧𝗘𝗡𝗗 𝗢𝗥 𝗟𝗜𝗙𝗧 𝗬𝗢𝗨𝗥 𝗛𝗢𝗨𝗦𝗘?
This question has arisen on almost every site consultation we have done over the last six months. Readers of these posts, who have had us out for that consult, will know what I mean!
The most clear way to answer the question, comes down to two main points with some subtleties, so let's see where this leads.
The biggest factor is simply cost.
When a house is lifted and then built in, it is effectively being doubled in size. Plus, the original house will undergo some renovations, probably an extension too. This adds up. Say your house is the average of houses prior to 1970, it will be somewhere between 90sqm and 120sqm. At around $5,000/sqm, the lift with build-in alone is going to be approaching $450k to $600k. Then, you add in things like internal stairs, tall outside stairs, excavations and retaining walls if needed, revisions to the upper level, probably a new kitchen somewhere, and a contingency, and that can quickly add $100k to $300k. Not to mention, a lot of landscaping because the site has been pretty much destroyed!
So, as you can see, be prepared for something approaching $800k to $1m and sometimes higher. That can be fine and dandy of course, as long as you know in advance, because you will end up with a magic property.
One aspect of this that I like to mention, and is the other point, is that once you start on a lift and build-in you cannot stop and can head into some big money. Having said that though there can be options within this such as staging it or doing more modest versions. Do you need the five- or six-bedroom house which is kind of where lifted buildings head towards?
Your site contours can have quite a bit of impact as well. The more level it is, the less excavation and retaining walls are needed. That kind of work really adds up.
So, how does an extension become more sensible?
We like to ask, what is it that you are specifically after? If it is something like a master bedroom plus a bit more living, maybe you should consider a reduced project. An extension or pavilion type addition is always less expensive, even though the square metre rate will be approaching $6,500/sqm for an extension, a bit less for pavilions.
With care from your designer, the way this is done on an extension can be quite elegant, and one thing that we are often now saying is rip off the rear portion of the roof and extend at full ceiling height for a really good result. A linked pavilion, is almost like a new building, and this can bring the costs down, as the builder is almost able to start on day one without expensive revisions to the house.
Something else that is emerging quite strongly over the last few months is the option of building a secondary dwelling. This has been around for 25 years, but with the housing crisis quite a few more people are now thinking on it. You get the benefit of a new building in effect, at lower cost rate and there is separation between the main house and whoever is in the secondary dwelling. Occupants are no longer the classic ‘granny’ but often young adult offspring. You can even rent it out.
We are often suggesting carports as a good solution, rather than placing cars under lifted buildings except as per the next few sentences. These are often best placed in the front yard where nothing else is legally allowed to be located.
The question of whether to lift or extend can also have car accommodation in the mix in a way that can answer the question as well. We find that placing cars under lifted houses as part of a build in can occupy expensive real estate in the building. On some occasions though, we have lifted buildings, not for ‘house’ but to create car accommodation along with much needed workshop, storage zones and covered play area - a bit like early Queenslanders when they went from low to higher positioning. This type of project can be quite cost effective, and it frees up money to extend and renovate the upper level.
Our images today are a selection of all sorts of project versions.
Peter Latemore and his team are local Building Designers, specializing in Queenslanders, including post-war, amongst all building types. Based in Grange, as Latemore Design, 3356 9051, [email protected], ABN 39 010 895 682. Servicing the inner regions within 12kms of Brisbane CBD. QBCC 1055247.
If you would like to see more projects - https://latemoredesign.com.au/
Looking for past posts? Go to our page - https://www.facebook.com/latemoredesign

Latemore Design

28/05/2026

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Monday	8:30am - 5pm
Tuesday	8:30am - 5pm
Wednesday	8:30am - 5pm
Thursday	8:30am - 5pm
Friday	8:30am - 5pm