Mad Tree Services

Mad Tree Services We are mad enough to guarantee safe and reliable tree lopping services. Mad boys will make your day.

09/03/2026

Cutting a tree safely starts before the chainsaw—measure the tree’s height and clear the felling zone first, or the fall can land somewhere you didn’t expect. 🌲

05/03/2026

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05/03/2026

Tree Pruning Made Simple ✂️🌳

Pruning the right way keeps your tree healthy and helps wounds heal faster. A clean cut in the right spot makes all the difference.

1️⃣ Cut at the branch collar
Make your cut just outside the slightly swollen area where the branch meets the trunk. This zone helps the tree seal the wound naturally.
Relatable mistake 😅 cutting too far out and leaving a stub “just to be safe.”

2️⃣ Don’t leave stubs
Long stubs dry out and can start to rot, increasing the risk of disease.

3️⃣ Avoid cutting too deep
Never cut into the trunk itself. Damaging the protective tissue slows healing and weakens the tree.

4️⃣ Remove weak or inward growth
Thin or crossing branches reduce airflow and light. Clearing them improves overall structure.

5️⃣ Use clean, sharp tools
Smooth cuts heal faster. Dull or dirty tools tear the wood and raise the chance of infection.

A precise cut at the branch collar protects your tree and supports strong, healthy growth for years to come. 🌿

05/03/2026

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26/02/2026

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The angle of your cut decides the direction of your tree.A proper felling angle and starting height can mean the differe...
26/02/2026

The angle of your cut decides the direction of your tree.
A proper felling angle and starting height can mean the difference between a clean drop and a dangerous mistake.

⚠️ Do you actually plan your escape route before every cut?

Bushcraft isn’t about tools — it’s about skill.From a simple fuzz stick to smart tree bracing, survival starts with know...
25/02/2026

Bushcraft isn’t about tools — it’s about skill.
From a simple fuzz stick to smart tree bracing, survival starts with knowing the small techniques most people ignore.

How many of these skills do you actually know? 🌲🔥

🌲 Why Hinge Wood Matters More Than Most People ThinkWhen felling a tree, the hinge wood isn’t just leftover timber — it’...
25/02/2026

🌲 Why Hinge Wood Matters More Than Most People Think

When felling a tree, the hinge wood isn’t just leftover timber — it’s your steering wheel.

🪵 Hinge wood controls the fall
It guides the tree in the intended direction and prevents sudden twists.

⚠️ Too thin?
The hinge can snap early → the tree may fall unpredictably.

⚠️ Too thick?
The tree may sit back, split, or pull fibers dangerously.

🎯 The secret is balance:
A proper notch + correct back cut = the right hinge thickness to guide the fall safely.

✅ Plan your notch carefully
✅ Leave enough hinge wood
✅ Stay clear of the fall zone
✅ Always have an escape route

💬 Let’s talk experience:
Have you ever seen a tree fall wrong because the hinge failed?
What happened?

25/02/2026

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25/02/2026

Rigging isn’t just about strength — it’s about control.
The right knot can be the difference between a smooth lowering… and a dangerous drop. 🌲🪢

Do you recognize these rigging setups?

a technical instructional diagram titled "Pruning a Large Limb." It illustrates the "three-cut method," a standard arbor...
25/02/2026

a technical instructional diagram titled "Pruning a Large Limb." It illustrates the "three-cut method," a standard arboricultural practice used to remove heavy tree branches without damaging the main trunk.
The illustration is divided into three sequential steps, each showing a cross-section of a tree trunk and a departing limb.

STEP 1: THE UNDERCUT
The first panel shows the initial cut made to the underside of the branch.
• Action: An "Undercut" is made about 12–24 inches away from the branch collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk).
• Purpose: This cut acts as a "stop." If the heavy limb snaps and falls while being cut from the top, the bark will only tear as far as this undercut, preventing a long, damaging strip of bark from being ripped off the main trunk.

STEP 2: THE REMOVAL CUT
The second panel shows the branch being completely severed.
• Action: A second cut is made from the top of the limb, approximately 2–3 inches further out from the first undercut.
• Purpose: By cutting further out, the weight of the limb is removed. If the branch falls before the cut is finished, it breaks cleanly between the two cuts rather than tearing the trunk. This leaves a temporary "stub" attached to the tree.

STEP 3: THE FINAL CUT
The third panel shows the finishing touch to ensure the tree heals properly.
• Action: The remaining stub is removed with a final cut just beyond the branch collar.
• Purpose: This is the most critical cut for tree health. By leaving the branch collar intact (not cutting "flush" against the trunk), the tree can naturally seal the wound with "callus" or "wound wood."
• Note: The text advises supporting the stub during this cut to prevent any minor bark tearing.

KEY ANATOMICAL TERMS SHOWN
• Branch Collar: The distinctive bulge of bark and wood at the base of a branch. It contains chemically protective tissues that help the tree defend against decay.
• Bark: The rough, grey/brown outer layer shown in detail on the exterior.
• Heartwood/Sapwood: The interior of the tree is shown in a lighter tan color, representing the internal wood structure.

Pruning cut technique," is an educational diagram demonstrating the correct and incorrect ways to remove a large tree br...
25/02/2026

Pruning cut technique," is an educational diagram demonstrating the correct and incorrect ways to remove a large tree branch. It highlights how improper cuts can lead to disease, poor healing, or physical damage to the tree.
The image is divided into four panels, labeled A through D:

BREAKDOWN OF PRUNING TECHNIQUES

A. CUT IS TOO FAR FROM STEM (STUB IS TOO LONG)
• Visual: A long, protruding piece of the branch (a stub) remains after the cut.
• The Problem: The tree cannot effectively grow over a long stub. This dead wood eventually rots, providing an entry point for fungi and insects to travel into the main trunk.

B. CUT IS TOO CLOSE TO STEM (FLUSH CUT)
• Visual: The cut has been made flat against the trunk, removing the "branch collar" (the swollen area where the branch meets the stem).
• The Problem: The branch collar contains specialized cells that help the tree seal the wound. By removing it, the tree’s natural defense system is compromised, leading to slower healing and a higher risk of decay in the main trunk.

C. HEAVY BRANCH SAWN WITHOUT UNDERCUT (TEARING DAMAGE)
• Visual: The bark is ripped and stripped down the side of the main trunk.
• The Problem: When a heavy branch is cut from the top down without support, the weight of the falling branch causes it to snap before the cut is finished. This peels away a long strip of bark and living tissue from the trunk, creating a massive, jagged wound that is difficult for the tree to heal.

D. CORRECT SAWING OF A LARGE BRANCH (THE 3-CUT METHOD)
• Visual: This panel shows the "Undercut" technique, which is the industry standard for preventing the damage seen in Panel C.
• The Technique:
• 1st cut (Undercut): A notch is made on the underside of the branch, a few inches away from the trunk.
• 2nd cut (Top cut): A cut is made from the top, slightly further out than the first cut. This allows the heavy branch to fall away cleanly without tearing the bark back to the trunk.
• Final cut: Once the weight is gone, the remaining stub is removed just outside the branch collar (as hinted at in the diagram).

Address

Gatton, QLD
4343

Opening Hours

Monday 9am - 5pm
Tuesday 9am - 5pm
Wednesday 9am - 5pm
Thursday 9am - 5pm
Friday 9am - 3pm
Sunday 9am - 5pm

Telephone

+61450166443

Website

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