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Greenleaf Plant centre, Timaru (2026)

Also stockists of seeds, fertilisers, sprays, compost, potting mixes and other ancillary products.

27/05/2024

May Courier article.
Only a month until the shortest day and winter hasn't really shown up yet. There has been the odd light
frost, but any dips to near freezing temperatures have been short lived. The real story of the last month has
been the paucity of rain. Moisture storage in the soil is at very low levels, with the little rain that has
fallen barely wetting the surface. There's a little rain forecast and hopefully the beginings of a much
needed winter recharge.
One type plant that has struggled in my garden this month is Rhododendron. Even in an area of usually
damp shade, some large well established plants are actually wilting. Rhododendron is notoriously
sensitive to dry conditions with its shallow root system. A layer of mulch certainly helps protect roots
from dry conditions, although even this may not be enough when drought becomes severe. I find straw the
best mulch. Bark, or wood chips, can deplete the soil of nitrogen, unless composted first. Before mulching
the addition of peat moss, or acidifying fertiliser, such as elemental sulphur can lower the soil pH into the
range most preferred by these acid soil loving plants.
Blueberries are another garden plant that also enjoys acidifying ammendments and a layer of mulch,
being a member of the same Ericaceae family as Rhododendron.
I prefer to keep my acid loving plants separated from other garden plants due to their specific soil
requirements. Blueberries in particular just will not perform well without adjusting the soil acidity first.
They are highly productive given the right conditions.
It's entering the quiet season in the garden, with tasks mainly involving maintainance. Winter pruning
can be undertaken from now. Dry sunny days are best, allowing time for any wounds to dry, before
infections can invade damp surfaces. It's best to seal any larger cuts with pruning paste.
Once pruned, winter clean up sprays can be applied, giving trees the best start for the new season. Start
with Lime Sulphur, which cleans tree branches of accumulated mosses and lichens and overwintering
insects such as Pear Blister Mite.
There may be some crops yet to be harvested, such as yams. The tops are very frost sensitive and to
achieve larger tubers they need to be kept healthy for as long as possible. The longer the crop actively
grows beyond April, the larger the crop will be. Every clear night I tuck my yam crop under a layer of
frost cloth and take it off in the morning. Remember when harvesting to pick up every tiny tuber you find.
Every ctuber can form a new plant and being a member of the oxalis family hints at its ability to spread.
Freezing temperatures help to sweeten many winter crops. Parsnip and swede especially. Silverbeet also
sweetens nicely in the cold, probably why birds love stripping the leaves over winter.
May is the last chance to sow a green manure crop before soil temperatures drop to the point
germination is slow and irratic. It's beneficial to have soil protected from the worst of the elements over
winter. Heavy rainfall can result in a loss of valuable nutrients and leave soil needing much more
remediation before spring crops can be successfully established. My earliest sowing of green manure
mustard is now 30cm tall and promising to provide a lot of bulky green organic material for digging in.
Among the hardy vegetables that can still be grown as temperatures decline are, broad beans, garlic and
leaf vegetables, such as Pak Choi, Rocket and Mizuna. Those fortunate enough to have a greenhouse at
their disposal can plant Brocolli, Beets, Lettuces and Cauliflower. Some of the best Caulis I have grown
have been in the greenhouse over winter. They were beautifuly snow white, unlike outdoor grown, that
can quickly discolour with adverse weather.
For some colourful winter cheer in the flower garden, or pots, plant winter hardy annuals such as Pansy,
Viola, or Primula. They are all tough little plants, that can shrug off the worst of winter conditions. It's
still not too late for planting spring flowering bulbs such as tulips either.

01/05/2024

Autumn courier article,
April has been calm, mild and mainly dry to date. There was a decent wet spell about two weeks ago, but
because it fell on bone dry soil, and because there's been no follow up rain, its benefit has been muted
somewhat. Where plants have access to moisture growth is still happening, albeit slowing with shorter
daylight hours. After two frosty mornings in late March, that burned tender foliage, overnight
temperatures have lifted again.
Deciduous and herbaceous plants are heading for their winter dormancy, with drifts of fallen leaves
building up where wind eddies leave them. Collected autumn leaves are a great source of organic matter
for the compost heap. Keeping them damp and mixing a few handfuls of lime and blood and bone, or
some animal manure, will aid decompositon. The dying stalks of herbaceous perennials can be trimmed
off, cut up, and thrown on the compost as well.
Warm summer temperatures advanced the development and ripening of summer crops in our veggie
garden. The garden looked very bare a month earlier than usual. Sweetcorn, pumpkin, potatoes and
outdoor tomato have all been processed and stored for use over winter. The parts of the garden these crops
occupied have been sown in mustard and lupin as a green manure crop. One heat loving crop thats still
producing is zucchini planted in January. The leaves were frosted in March, but temperatures have been so
warm since, they have recovered and are providing welcome unexpected variety.
Other longer season crops still in the garden since last spring are carrot, parsnip and yam. Our carrot
crop has been excellent and we are still using the early sowing from last September. Surprisingly there's
no sign of carrot root fly, as they received no protection from this pest at all. Parsnip is also looking
promising, although we don't usually use those until frost has sweetened the roots. Yams are looking
vigourous. They need another 6 weeks of growth to really get good sized tubers, so it's a good idea to
have some frost cloth handy, just in case. Watering in a handful of potash fertiliser, if not already done,
will improve the size of yam tubers.
Leaf vegetables are all enjoying the cooler days and the end of the annual white butterfly plague. Celery
and lettuce are both still healthy and producing well. Regular liquid feeding will keep production going
until the cold sets in. It's really too late to sow seedlings outside now. Larger established plants will
continue to develop, but seedlings just don't have the leaf area to generate growth as light and temperature
levels deteriorate heading into May.
Around ANZAC day is Broad Bean planting time. Hardy broad beans can shrug off the worst cold
Timaru winters can throw at them. Just dig in some well rotted compost and a handful of fertiliser at
sowing and this will feed them until spring. My favourites to grow are Evergreen, medium height with
green beans rather than brown, and Exhibition, which is a tall heavy cropper. There are dwarf varieties for
the smaller garden and interesting red flowering types also.
Feijoa fruit should be filling nicely now. A feed of liquid fertiliser now should add that little bit extra fruit
quality, making a good crop a great crop. Once the fruit starts dropping to the ground it's ready to harvest.
To really get the best flavoured fruit, place them in a bowl in a warm spot with other ripe fruit.

17/09/2023

Hope everyone is getting this wonderful shower today. The garden is just lapping it up after the beating from wind.

25/08/2023

August Courier Article
It's a perfect early spring day. Bright sun, no wind, cool air and cheery daffidols blooming. August has
been a settled month so far, without extremes. Weather conditions are tending drier in our region. The
contrast with the extreme wet August 2022 couldn't be greater. Soil conditions are perfect for spring
garden preparation. Digging in green manure crops, spreading compost and mulch.
Some of the fruit trees I have recently planted are about to blossom. The peach and apricot especially. It's
time to make sure your peaches/nectarines have that protective coating of copper spray over the emerging
leaf buds. Failure to protect this vulnerable new growth can result in a serious leaf curl infestation, at least
until christmas. Some varieties are more susceptable than others, but golden queen, although its a great
processing peach, is one to avoid in the home garden in my opinion. Spraying should be undertaken every
10-14 days and after any rain to ensure protection and a wetter/sticker needs to be added to the spray mix
to ensure effectiveness.
It's time for rejuvenating the strawberry patch. W**d, replace any exhausted plants, give a sprinkle of
fertiliser and mulch with straw. There are flower buds appearing on some of my more vigourous plants,
however early flowers are susceptible to the cold and rarely develop properly, especially in my garden
where they occupy a frostier spot.
W**d, feed and mulch the asparagus bed now. Get rid of any perennial weeds that may have infested the
bed before the spears start appearing.
Seed potatoes should be spouted now. Leave in an open tray in a warm spot and once the sprouts reach
about 25mm they can be planted. It will take two or three weeks for them to break the soil surface, when
they can be mounded. Keep mounding to protect the tips from frost and once they are too large, frost cloth
can be draped over them on cold nights. Frosted plants can reduce the yield, depending on severity.
In warmer parts of the garden brassicas such as broccoli can be planted, along with radish, peas, broad
beans, onions and beets, although beets will probably run to seed come November.
With the warmer temperatures lawns are now starting to grow, however many are suffering large areas of
moss infestation, requiring treatment. If the moss infestation isn't too bad most lawn fertiliser contains
some iron suphate which will control it. For heavy infestations a more concentrated application of iron
sulphate may be needed, best dissolved in water and use a watering can over the area.
Those with greenhouses can get planting of tender plants such as tomatoes underway. Be aware that
overnight temperature in the greenhouse can still drop below zero overnight during cold clear nights,
usually just after a southerly has blown through. Some sort of supplimental heat, could be beneficial. Next
best would be frost cloth draped over plants. With frost cloth it's always better if it isn't touching the
foliage as it can freeze immediately under the cloth.
Finish off any pruning needed on roses, berries and fruit trees. The sap will begin to rise at an increasing
rate over the next few weeks and deplete the plants energy if done too late into the new season.

25/02/2023

February has been a stunning month weather wise. While much of the country has been suffering the ravages of some very nasty weather systems, South Canterbury has been an oasis of calm. Going forward, it appears an intensifying dry period is beginning to grip the region. Timaru has gone from green, to burnt brown in the space of a month. At least the extreme wet of 2022 has provided a deep store of moisture larger plants can tap into.
The warmth and dry has provided excellent conditions for ripening crops. My strawberries were really struggling right into January. Lots of tasteless and rotting fruit with the damp overcast conditions. Now with the sunny days fruit is amazing. Very sweet and clean. Plants are still flowering profusely, so I'm hoping for tasty berries well into autumn. Keep plants well watered though, strawberries hate drying out. Regular liquid feeding will keep plants producing well also. Stone fruit is nearly over and now pip fruit is coming into season. The first apples are now ripening and pears won't be far behind. Seems bird predation is going to be worse this year than some. When conditions are dry, juicy fruit hanging conveniently on a tree are too tempting. To prevent trees being stripped bare, some netting protection will be needed.
My onions have been a bit disappointing. When the tops start to bend, they are ready to harvest. The leaves struggled with fungal infection right through the growing season, due to the high humidity. The result is the bulbs are smaller than desirable. Once dug, the bulbs can be left to dry and harden in the sun or in a sunny, airy shed. I like to hang mine in an open weave onion sack. Brown onions are usually great keepers and I've managed to store them right through till November in the past. Onions that are damaged, or have a thick neck should be used first. Red onions are not good keepers and best used before mid winter.
It's time to plant for the winter garden. In my garden I have found January is too early and crops are ready to use well before the cold sets in, however veggie plants need a good amount of leaf area by the end of April to keep them producing over winter. Plants that are too small at this time tend to grow little over winter and then go straight to seed as soon as temperatures warm in spring. Brassicas, beets and lettuce planted over the next two, or three weeks will provide healthy greens over the winter and early spring, just when supermarket prices are at their seasonal peak.
Any part of the garden not required for autumn/ winter, can now be sown into a green manure crop. This can help build soil organic matter, prevent weeds taking over bare soil and prevent losing nutrients during heavy winter rains. Mustard and lupin are ideal for this purpose, along with oats, which are better sown later, when soil temperature has cooled. Pumpkin and squash should be filling their fruit nicely now. A liquid feed, or dressing of fertiliser containing potash will give the crop a boost now. Zucchini are producing heavily now. I'm leaving some to form marrows for winter storage. They are great for bulking up winter soups and our pet Kune Kune is quite partial to munching on them as a treat.
Yams are another crop that will benefit from an application of potash now. Tubers will start filling in about a month and having that little fertiliser boost will bulk up the tubers substantially.
White butterfly hasn't been too much of a problem yet, but as warm days continue, they'll be out in force. I have noticed huge numbers of their white eggs under leaves of my broccoli seedlings. Any members of the cabbage family will need regular treatment with Mavric, Success, or Derris dust, unless under insect protection net.

01/08/2021

Courier article from last week.
July has had a run of frosty weather. Gardens are looking rather bedraggled and lifeless, although I've noticed daffodils and even tulips, poking up through the frozen ground. Garlic too, is starting to emerge from the cold soil.
Soil moisture is perfect at the moment, setting us up for a productive spring. Last year at this time, it was very, very, dry. A situation that didnt improve until November.
Some of my mustard crop is now a good height, at 30cm, for digging in. Some of my later mustard has a bit of catching up to do, but the cold nights have reduced growth to near zero. Leaving mustard longer means a heavier crop, but also more stalky material that is difficlt to bury and slower to break down. Spreading Lime, or Gypsum, at this time also benefits soil quality heading into the planting season.
Potatoes can be sprouted in a warm spot, giving them a flying start once soil temperatures have risen enough for outdoor planting. In the warmest gardens, mid to late August is a good time for planting a first crop. Sprouted potatoes take a couple of weeks to break the soil surface and once they are through, rows should be mounded, providing further protection from cold. Once the crop has fully emerged and mounded, cover shoots with straw, or frost cloth for further protection. Some varieties show a slightly higher frost tolerance than others.
Now is the time to establish an asparagus bed, or rejuvenate an existing one. Asparagus is a member of the lily family and requires good drainage to perform well. Keeping soil loose with the addition of grit and compost and, or, using a raised bed, is beneficial to successful cropping. Existing asparagus beds should have the spent top growth cut back to ground level and weeds removed, before applying a layer of compost. A handful or two of fertiliser will boost productivity also. Keep the spears regularly picked, but once production slows down in later spring (or you've had your full of them), let the spears grow and mature into their ferny foliage. This will feed the roots and help the plants persist. Fresh, home grown asparagus, is orders of magnitude tastier than that availible commercially.
The next month or so is the best time for applying lawn fertiliser, as product has time to weather into the soil before the first mowing. If left too late, grass needs to be cut before fertiliser has properly broken down and some ends up in the catcher and is wasted. It's also a good time to change the oil in the mower, clean the air filter and sharpen up the blades.
Now is the ideal time to be planting fruit trees and deciduous ornamentals such as flowering cherry or colourful maple. With fruit trees, if space is at a premium, espaliering the branches along a sunny fence is a good option. In my own orchard, having the trees espaliered, allows me more varieties in a limited space and a succession of fruit from Christmas, right through to the end of June. Planting these trees now gives the roots time to establish before the stress of supplying water to foliage commences as the season moves on.
Don't forget to get on with pruning. With the days soon getting longer, plants will respond with sap flow, causing any wounds from pruning to stress the plant. The winter spray programme should also be underway now. Lime sulphur will clear any mosses and lichens, along with pests such as pear blister mite. Follow up two weeks later with a copper spray for disease control and finally a spray with winter strength spraying oil. It's especially important to protect the emerging buds on peach and nectarine trees with copper, otherwise ugly leaf curl fungus will infect the buds, resulting in disfigured leaves through the growing season.

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