Parklane Landscapes

Parklane Landscapes Landscaping, growing food, meadows, tree planting, composting, invasive plant removal, and nature.

Another mini-meadow in the works! 108 feet long with and average of 12 feet wide, for approximately 1296 square feet. Ti...
06/18/2026

Another mini-meadow in the works! 108 feet long with and average of 12 feet wide, for approximately 1296 square feet. Tilled and planted with the first crop of buckwheat! More pics to follow in the future!

An American Goldfinch perched on one of the flowers in Ernst Conservation Seed’s Butterfly and Hummingbird Garden Mix (E...
06/16/2026

An American Goldfinch perched on one of the flowers in Ernst Conservation Seed’s Butterfly and Hummingbird Garden Mix (ERNMX-179), one of our favorite meadow mixes for residential settings. Ernst Conservation Seeds

The colorful flowers you’re seeing here are primarily annual species included in the mix to provide quick color, pollinator resources, and w**d suppression while the native perennial wildflowers establish. These annuals act as a built-in nurse crop, which is one of the reasons we like this mix so much for residential projects. As the perennial wildflowers mature, both biodiversity and habitat value will continue to increase.

This meadow was planted directly into a standing crop of oats in December of last year. No additional nurse crop was used.

We’ve revised our “Planting for Proper Mulch Placement” publication.Based on the questions and feedback we’ve received, ...
06/14/2026

We’ve revised our “Planting for Proper Mulch Placement” publication.

Based on the questions and feedback we’ve received, we’ve updated the publication to make it easier to follow and understand. We’ve also added additional details and clarifications to help explain the reasoning behind the planting method and proper mulch placement.

If you’ve downloaded a previous version, we encourage you to download the updated edition from our website.

Thank you for the feedback and thoughtful questions.

NOTE: This was a bagged mulch product that was used for this photograph. It was used for contrast, to show that “no mulch” is placed on top of the root ball. We do not use red or dyed mulch products on any of our projects.

This post is a continuation of our recent “This tree was not planted by us” post. It also demonstrates Diagram A from ou...
06/10/2026

This post is a continuation of our recent “This tree was not planted by us” post. It also demonstrates Diagram A from our free Planting for Proper Mulch Placement educational publication, available for download on our website.

Photo 1 shows a planting hole approximately twice as wide as the root ball and about 2 inches shallower than the root ball height.

Photos 2 and 3 show the root ball after backfilling, with approximately 2 inches of the root ball remaining above the existing grade.

Photo 4 shows the finished mulch layer. The mulch is brought to the edge of the root ball and tapered from approximately 3 inches deep in the surrounding bed to about 2 inches deep at the root ball. No mulch has been placed on top of the root ball.

The plant is now growing at the same depth it was growing in the container. The mulch wasn’t an afterthought—the plant was installed with proper mulch placement in mind from the beginning.

Oh look, we spotted another “STARVATION STATION” at a nursery yesterday! This plant is supposedly “NON‑INVASIVE” but sti...
06/10/2026

Oh look, we spotted another “STARVATION STATION” at a nursery yesterday! This plant is supposedly “NON‑INVASIVE” but still fails to support the insect biomass and diversity that native shrubs provide. Insects that evolved with our native plants don’t recognize this plant as food. When insects can’t use a plant, the energy flow stops and everything up the food web feels that loss. Fewer insects, fewer birds!

This tree was not planted by us. We are posting not to criticize another contractor, but to highlight a common misconcep...
06/07/2026

This tree was not planted by us. We are posting not to criticize another contractor, but to highlight a common misconception: mulch isn’t something you figure out after the plant is in the ground. Proper mulch placement is essential for a tree’s long‑term health and should be taken into consideration while planting.

We have a free, two‑page educational publication on our website that covers this exact topic: Planting for Proper Mulch Placement

On a guided nature walk yesterday, our guide pointed out this beautifully woven Baltimore Oriole nest.And of course, whe...
06/07/2026

On a guided nature walk yesterday, our guide pointed out this beautifully woven Baltimore Oriole nest.

And of course, when we got home we had to learn more about them!

The female Oriole builds these hanging, pouch‑shaped nests over the course of about two weeks, using plant fibers and grasses to create a secure cradle high in the canopy. It’s an incredible example of natural engineering and instinctive craftsmanship.

Nature is full of surprises — and this one was the highlight of the day!

Trees, shrubs, and perennials should never be planted below the proper finished grade. This text and the accompanying in...
06/04/2026

Trees, shrubs, and perennials should never be planted below the proper finished grade. This text and the accompanying infographic explain how to plant at the correct height and properly place mulch around your plants.

The root flare—the point where the trunk of a tree or shrub widens into the first major roots—should be visible at the finished grade. When the root flare is buried in soil or mulch, bark tissues remain constantly moist, promoting decay and restricting oxygen exchange. These conditions often lead to the development of girdling roots and long‑term decline.

We typically recommend positioning the top of the rootball 2 to 3 inches above existing grade for small to medium size plants and 3 to 4 inches above existing grade for larger trees and shrubs when planting.

Planting high in relation to the existing grade allows mulch to be placed properly. Mulch, which contributes to the finished grade, can be brought to the edge of the rootball (A) or gradually tapered to the grade surrounding the plant (B) while keeping it away from the trunk and stems (see infographic).

These methods (A and B) allow for the proper mulch thickness/depth of 2 to 4 inches, prevent mulch volcanoes, and keep mulch away from trunks and stems.

Notes:

With balled and burlapped trees it is common to find 2 to 6 inches of excess soil on top of the rootball. This excess soil must be removed before planting in order to expose the root flare. Ideally, the point where uppermost structural root(s) originate should be within (approximately) 1 inch of the soil surface.

Some of the terms used in this information only apply to woody plants (trees and shrubs), but the method of planting high, above the existing grade in order to place mulch correctly (as shown in the infographic) should also be used when planting perennials.

Stopped by this meadow project we planted last year to put up this sign and couldn’t resist snapping a few photos. The t...
06/02/2026

Stopped by this meadow project we planted last year to put up this sign and couldn’t resist snapping a few photos. The transformation is incredible. The homeowner is thrilled — more pollinators, more color, and less lawn to mow. Next year it will look differently, less annual nursery crop, more native perennials!

Tomatoes love being planted deep because their stems grow new roots wherever they’re buried.This creates a stronger root...
06/02/2026

Tomatoes love being planted deep because their stems grow new roots wherever they’re buried.
This creates a stronger root system and a sturdier plant — even when planted in containers. Bury the stem, you can even remove some of the lower leaves in order to do so.

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Puzzletown Road
Duncansville, PA
16635

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Wednesday 9am - 5pm
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