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Monday 9am - 5pm Tuesday 9am - 5pm Wednesday 9am - 5pm Thursday 9am - 5pm Friday 9am - 5pm Saturday 9am - 5pm Sunday 10am - 4pm

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Orner's Garden Center, 15 W Eagle Road, Havertown, PA (2026)

04/23/2025

Looking for something easy to grow and looks great too? Try Marigolds, the best part is they will usually bloom most if not all season (remember to trim dead blooms). They are also great companions to vegetables in the garden. .

Marigolds are easy to grow due to several traits and adaptable characteristics:
Fast Germination: Seeds sprout quickly (5-14 days) under warm conditions (70-75°F), giving growers rapid results.

Tolerant of Poor Soil: Marigolds thrive in a wide range of soil types, including sandy or low-fertility soils, though they prefer well-draining, slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0-7.0).

Drought and Heat Tolerance: Once established, they handle hot, dry conditions well, requiring minimal watering compared to other annuals.

Low Maintenance: They need little fertilization (a light dose every 4-6 weeks suffices) and don’t require complex care routines.

Pest Resistance: Marigolds naturally repel certain pests like nematodes and aphids due to their strong scent, reducing the need for chemical interventions.

Adaptable Light Needs: While they prefer full sun (6+ hours), they can tolerate partial shade, making them versatile for various garden spots.

Forgiving for Beginners: Their hardiness means they can withstand minor over- or underwatering and still produce vibrant blooms.

04/11/2025

Transform Your Lawn with Kentucky Bluegrass Sod: Lush, Green, and Ready to Impress!
Want a vibrant, velvety lawn without the wait? Kentucky bluegrass sod is your ticket to a picture-perfect yard! Here’s why this classic grass shines and how to nail the install.
Kentucky bluegrass sod—pre-grown with roots and soil—delivers an instant, lush lawn. It’s ideal for patching bald spots, upgrading a worn-out yard, or starting from scratch. Unlike seeding, which can take weeks and risks uneven growth or washouts, sod gives you a dense, uniform carpet in hours. Plus, Kentucky bluegrass is known for its rich color and soft texture—perfect for barefoot strolls!
Why Kentucky Bluegrass Sod?
Speed: Go from bare to beautiful in a day.

Durability: Its self-repairing rhizomes fill in wear spots, ideal for kids or pets.

Erosion Control: Thick roots stabilize slopes or bare patches.

Cool-Season King: Thrives in northern climates, staying green from spring to fall.
How to Lay Kentucky Bluegrass Sod Like a Pro
Prep the Ground: Clear w**ds, rocks, and old grass. Loosen soil 4-6 inches deep with a rake or rototiller. Mix in a starter fertilizer (like 10-10-10) to kickstart roots.

Level It Out: Smooth the soil with a rake, ensuring drainage (slight slope away from your house). Lightly water to make it tacky, not muddy.

Roll Out the Sod: Start along a straight edge (sidewalk or driveway). Lay strips snugly, staggering seams like bricks to avoid gaps. Trim with a utility knife for clean edges.

Water Well: Soak the sod right after laying—aim for 1 inch of water. Keep it moist (not waterlogged) for two weeks to help roots bond with the soil.

Mow Smart: Wait 2-3 weeks before mowing. Set blades high (2.5-3.5 inches) to keep Kentucky bluegrass healthy and stress-free.
Pro Tips:

Limit foot traffic for a week to let roots settle.

Measure your yard to avoid overbuying!

Kentucky bluegrass loves full sun but tolerates light shade; water 1-2 times weekly once established.
Downsides? Sod costs more than seed, and Kentucky bluegrass needs regular watering and mowing to stay lush. But the payoff? A lawn that screams curb appeal! Spring or early fall is prime time to lay it—cool temps help roots dig in. What’s your lawn vibe—ready for that bluegrass glow? Share your plans or questions below!

04/03/2025

Mulching 101: Protect Your Lawn and Plants
Mulching’s a game-changer in Southeast Pennsylvania—our clay soils and humid summers demand it. A 2–3-inch layer of organic mulch (think shredded bark, wood chips, or compost) saves water, cools roots, and feeds your lawn or garden beds. Here’s how to do it right.
Why Mulch Matters Here
Clay Control: SE PA’s heavy soils hold moisture but crust over in July heat. Mulch keeps them soft and workable.

W**d Block: It smothers crabgrass and dandelions—fewer headaches come June.

Winter Prep: Insulates roots against January freezes—think 20°F nights in Philly’s burbs.

How to Mulch
Pick Your Stuff: Hardwood bark or leaf mulch works best,

Time It: Late spring (mid-May) for beds, after planting—or fall (October) to lock in soil health. Skip wet weeks; soggy clay clumps under mulch.

Layer Smart: Spread 2–3 inches deep around plants or over bare lawn edges. Too thin, and w**ds poke through; too thick (4+ inches), and roots suffocate.

Keep It Clear: Don’t pile against tree trunks or grass crowns—“volcano mulching” rots bark and invites pests like voles.

Pro Tips
Grub Bonus: Mulch over grub-treated spots (post-July imidacloprid) to heal soil faster—roots recover, crabgrass stays out.

Leaf Hack: Shred fall leaves with your mower and mix in—free mulch, Penn State-approved.

Water First: If summer’s dry, soak soil before mulching—clay won’t drink through a fresh layer.

Results
By July, you’ll see less wilting in 90°F heat. By next year your soil’s richer—less fertilizer needed.

03/29/2025

Happy National Mom and Pop Business Owners Day! Today, March 29th, we’re celebrating the heart and soul of our community—small, family-owned businesses like Orner’s Garden Center. Since 1946, Orner’s has been serving Havertown with a stunning selection of plants, flowers, and garden treasures. There’s nothing like shopping local and supporting a family that’s been growing our community’s beauty for nearly 80 years! Swing by Orner’s today to grab something green and say Hi to Randy! Keeping Havertown thriving!

03/28/2025

Trap that Crabgrass!
Crabgrass Control: Stop It Before It Starts
Crabgrass is the sneakiest invader of SE PA lawns—thriving in our hot summers, spreading fast, and choking out your tall fescue or bluegrass. This annual w**d germinates when soil temps hit 55–60°F (think mid-April here), so timing’s everything. Here’s how to keep it under control.
Step 1: Scout Early
By late March, walk your lawn. Bare spots, thin patches, or sunny edges near sidewalks are crabgrass magnets—clay soils here warm up slow but bake hard by June, giving it an edge. Mark problem zones now.
Step 2: Pre-Emergent Power
The best defense is stopping crabgrass before it sprouts. Use a pre-emergent herbicide like prodiamine (Barricade) or dithiopyr (Dimension):
When: Apply in early April—watch for forsythia bushes blooming yellow. That’s your SE PA cue soil’s warm enough.

How: Spread granules with a broadcast spreader (2–3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft—check the label). Water in with ½ inch of water right after—our clay needs it to sink in.

Why: It forms a barrier, killing seeds as they germinate. Miss this window, and you’re fighting all summer.

Step 3: Boost Your Lawn
Healthy grass outcompetes crabgrass. Overseed thin areas with tall fescue in late August—fall’s prime in PA—and mow at 3–3.5 inches. Taller blades shade soil, making it tough for crabgrass to take hold. Skip heavy fertilizer now; spring nitrogen feeds w**ds too.
Step 4: Post-Emergent Backup
If you spot crabgrass by June—those star-shaped, light-green clumps—hit it fast:
What: Use a selective herbicide like quinclorac (Drive XLR8) or mesotrione (Tenacity). Spot-spray, not blanket—save the good grass.

How: Mix per label (usually 1 oz per gallon for small batches), apply on a calm, dry day, and don’t mow for 48 hours after.

Heads-Up: Young crabgrass dies easier; big plants need repeat hits.

SE PA Tips
Timing Tweaks: Wet springs delay soil warming,

Clay Caution: Don’t overwater post-treatment; ½ inch is plenty, or you’ll wash the barrier away.

Crabgrass loves grub-damaged spots.

03/26/2025

Got Grubs? Let's See...
In Southeast Pennsylvania, grubs—especially Japanese beetle larvae—can chew through your lawn’s roots, leaving brown, spongy patches by late summer. Here’s how to remove them effectively, tuned to your region:
Step-by-Step Grub Removal
Confirm the Problem: Check for grubs in July or August, when they’re most active here. Dig up a 1-square-foot section of turf where it’s browning—lift it like a flap. If you see 10 or more white, C-shaped grubs (about ½–1 inch long), you’ve got an infestation worth tackling.

Timing is Key: Act in mid-to-late July, before grubs grow bigger and do more damage. In SE PA, this aligns with peak egg-laying by Japanese beetles (late June to early July), so you hit the larvae early.

Use a Curative Treatment: Apply a grub-killing insecticide like imidacloprid (often sold as Bayer Advanced Grub Control) or trichlorfon (Dylox). These work fast:
Imidacloprid: Longer-lasting, kills young grubs. Spread granules with a broadcast spreader (follow label rates—usually 2–3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft), then water in with ½ inch of water to push it into the soil.

Trichlorfon: Stronger, kills larger grubs too. Mix with water if liquid, or spread granules, and water in immediately. It breaks down fast, so timing matters.
Penn State Extension says water after applying—clay soils here need it to drive the chemical down to the grubs.

Water Smart: After treatment, irrigate with ½–1 inch of water (use a rain gauge). Too little, and the product won’t reach the grubs; too much, and it washes away. Early morning works best to avoid fungal issues in PA’s humid summers.

Check Results: Wait 7–14 days, then dig another test patch. Dead grubs curl into a tighter “C” and look grayish. If they’re still wiggling, reapply trichlorfon—it’s better for stubborn cases.

Bonus Tips for SE PA
Prevent Next Year: Use a preventative like chlorantraniliprole (Scotts GrubEx) in late spring (May–early June) when soil temps hit 55°F—around when lilacs bloom. It stops grubs before they hatch.

Natural Option: Milky spore powder (a bacteria that targets grubs) works long-term but takes 1–3 years to build up in soil. Spread it in fall or spring; it’s slower but safe for pets and pollinators.

Lawn Repair: After grubs die, rake out dead patches and overseed with tall fescue (SE PA’s champ) in early fall—late August to mid-September. Keep it moist until it sprouts.

Caution
Don’t treat unless you’ve got 10+ grubs per square foot—below that, your lawn can recover naturally, and you save effort. Avoid overusing chemicals; they can stress beneficial soil critters.

03/21/2025

What are the numbers on Fertilizers?
The numbers on fertilizer labels represent the percentage by weight of three key nutrients: Nitrogen N, Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K), often referred to as N-P-K. These are the primary macronutrients plants need to grow strong and healthy. Here’s what each number means:
Nitrogen N - The first number indicates the percentage of nitrogen. Nitrogen promotes leafy, green growth and is essential for photosynthesis and overall plant vigor. For example, if the number is 10, the fertilizer contains 10% nitrogen.

Phosphorus (P) - The second number shows the percentage of phosphorus (usually listed as phosphate, P₂O₅). Phosphorus supports root development, flowering, and fruiting. A fertilizer with a 5 here contains 5% phosphorus.

Potassium (K) - The third number represents the percentage of potassium (usually listed as potash, K₂O). Potassium helps with overall plant health, disease resistance, and water regulation. A 20 means 20% potassium.

Example
A fertilizer labeled 10-5-20 contains:
10% Nitrogen

5% Phosphorus

20% Potassium

The remaining percentage (65% in this case) consists of filler materials, secondary nutrients, or micronutrients that help deliver the N-P-K to the plant.
How to Use This Info
High N (e.g., 20-5-5): Great for lawns or leafy vegetables.

High P (e.g., 10-20-10): Good for blooming plants or root crops.

High K (e.g., 5-5-15): Useful for fruiting plants or stress resistance.

03/15/2025

Get your dirt working for you!
How to Amend Your Garden Soil: A Practical Guide
Amending soil means improving its physical properties, nutrient content, or pH to make it a better home for plants. Whether your soil is too sandy, heavy with clay, nutrient-poor, or off-balance, the right amendments can turn it into a thriving foundation for your garden. Here’s how to do it, step by step.
Step 1: Test and Observe Your Soil
You can’t fix what you don’t understand. Start by digging a small hole (6-12 inches deep) and checking the soil’s texture, drainage, and life signs:
Texture: Rub it between your fingers. Sandy soil feels gritty and falls apart; clay is sticky and molds like dough; loam (the ideal) is crumbly and holds shape slightly.

Drainage: Pour water into the hole. If it sits for hours, drainage is poor (likely clay). If it vanishes instantly, it’s too sandy.

Life: Look for worms or bugs. Few or none signal low organic matter.

Step 2: Identify the Problem
Match your observations to common soil issues:
Compacted or Clay-Heavy: Hard, sticky, slow-draining.

Sandy: Loose, gritty, dries out fast.

Nutrient-Poor: Plants yellow, grow slowly, or yield poorly; soil test shows low N-P-K.

Wrong pH: Too acidic (below 6.0) or too alkaline (above 7.5) locks up nutrients.

Step 3: Choose Your Amendments
Here’s how to fix each issue with the right materials. Work amendments into the top 6-12 inches of soil using a shovel, fork, or tiller unless otherwise noted.
For Compacted or Clay Soil
Compost: Adds organic matter to loosen clumps and improve drainage. Use 2-3 inches.

Gypsum: Breaks up clay chemically without altering pH. Apply 1-2 pounds per 100 square feet, water it in, and reapply yearly if needed.

Coarse Sand: Improves drainage, but use sparingly (1 part sand to 3 parts soil) to avoid a concrete-like mix.

For Sandy Soil
Compost: Boosts water and nutrient retention. Mix in 2-3 inches.

Peat Moss or Coconut Coir: Holds moisture like a sponge. Add 1-2 inches; coir is more sustainable than peat.

Aged Manure: Adds nutrients and organic bulk. Use 1-2 inches, ensuring it’s well-rotted to avoid burning plants.

For Nutrient Deficiency
Compost: A slow-release all-rounder for N-P-K and micronutrients. Apply 1-2 inches yearly.

Organic Options: Blood meal (nitrogen), bone meal (phosphorus), or wood ash (potassium) target specific shortages—follow package rates (e.g., 1-2 cups per 10 square feet).

Balanced Fertilizer: A 10-10-10 or similar synthetic blend works fast for severe depletion. Use 1-2 pounds per 100 square feet, but don’t overdo it.

For pH Imbalance
Too Acidic (below 6.0): Add ground limestone (5-10 pounds per 100 square feet, depending on acidity) or wood ash (1-2 pounds per 100 square feet). Retest after 2-3 months—changes take time.

Too Alkaline (above 7.5): Mix in elemental sulfur (1-2 pounds per 100 square feet) or peat moss (1-2 inches). Apply in fall for spring planting, as it’s slow-acting.

Step 4: Apply Amendments
Timing: Fall or early spring is best—amendments need time to integrate before planting.

Method: Spread evenly over the soil surface, then dig or till them in. For pH fixes, water thoroughly after applying to kickstart the process.

Amount: Start conservative—over-amending can throw things off. A good rule: 1-3 inches of organic matter (like compost) for most fixes, adjusted based on soil volume.

Step 5: Maintain the Gains
Mulch: Top with 2-3 inches of straw, wood chips, or bark to lock in moisture and protect your work.

Replenish: Add 1-2 inches of compost annually to keep nutrients and structure strong.

Test Periodically: Check pH and nutrients every 1-2 years to stay on track.

Pro Tips
Avoid Fresh Manure: It’s too hot and can harm plants—let it age 6+ months.

Work Wet, Not Soaked: Soil should be moist but not muddy for best mixing.

Layer, Don’t Bury: Too deep, and amendments won’t reach surface roots where they’re needed most.

Why It Works
Amending soil isn’t just a patch job—it builds a better environment for roots, microbes, and water flow. Compost and organic matter feed the soil food web, while targeted fixes like gypsum or sulfur tackle structural or chemical flaws. Over time, your soil becomes less work and more reward.

03/10/2025

Preparing Your Garden for Spring Planting: A Fresh Start
Spring is just around the corner, and for gardeners, that means it’s time to shake off the winter chill and get your hands dirty. Preparing your garden for spring planting isn’t just about sowing seeds—it’s about setting the stage for a thriving season. With a little planning and elbow grease, you can ensure your garden bursts into life. Here’s how to get started.
First, take stock of what winter left behind. Clear out dead leaves, broken branches, and any lingering debris that’s piled up. This not only tidies things up but also removes hiding spots for pests that might snack on your future plants. If you’ve got a compost pile, now’s a great time to turn it—those decomposed goodies will be gold for your soil soon.
Next, assess your soil. After months of cold and wet, it might be compacted or drained of nutrients. Grab a shovel and dig a small test patch. If it’s clumpy or sticky, loosen it up with a garden fork. Mixing in some organic matter like compost or aged manure can give it a nutrient boost and improve drainage. If you’re unsure about pH or fertility, consider a simple soil test—local garden centers often sell kits, and it’s a small investment for big results.
Now’s also the time to plan your layout. What do you want to grow this year? Think about sunlight—veggies like tomatoes and peppers crave full sun, while leafy greens can handle some shade. Sketch a rough map of your garden beds, rotating crops from last year to prevent soil depletion and discourage pests. If you’re starting seeds indoors, check their germination times—some, like peppers, need a head start weeks before the last frost.
Tools need love too. Sharpen your pruners, clean your trowels, and check hoses for leaks. A little maintenance now saves frustration later. While you’re at it, prune any woody perennials or fruit trees before they bud—clean cuts encourage healthy growth.
Finally, tackle w**ds before they take over. Pull them out by the roots, and consider laying down mulch to smother new ones. It’s a bit of work upfront, but your plants will thank you by not having to compete for water and nutrients.
By mid-March (depending on your region—check your last frost date!), you’ll be ready to plant early crops like peas, spinach, or radishes. Warm-season stars like zucchini and basil come later, once the soil warms up. Pace yourself—gardening is a marathon, not a sprint.
Getting your garden spring-ready is about more than chores; it’s a ritual that reconnects you with the earth. So grab your gloves, breathe in that fresh air, and let the growing season begin!

01/05/2025

We have rock salt, calcium chloride for sale. Any questions call 610-446-8971

Orner's Garden Center

04/23/2025

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03/29/2025

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Monday	9am - 5pm
Tuesday	9am - 5pm
Wednesday	9am - 5pm
Thursday	9am - 5pm
Friday	9am - 5pm
Saturday	9am - 5pm
Sunday	10am - 4pm