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New location! Greenhouses start going up at first light! 🤩🤩🤩
08/28/2023

New location! Greenhouses start going up at first light! 🤩🤩🤩

Though not up to modern standards of the species in size or overall form, especially the tendency to have wonky lips, th...
06/18/2023

Though not up to modern standards of the species in size or overall form, especially the tendency to have wonky lips, this Brasilaelia (Cattleya) purpurata f. flamea is an early-stage selection from a line working to remove the clawed shape from the sepals of this iconic species. All the Brasilaelia species are generally known for having more or less recurved basal margins of the sepals in most individuals, widening gaps of the already fairly open form of the flowers. Modern lines are about three generations ahead of this plant, and are producing flowers that are nearing the threshold of perfection given the genetic possibilities, with broader petals, no sepaline clawing, and broad, round lips.

If anyone has interest, I just got some flasks of C. labiata 'Cedarwood's Thrall' AM/AOS x self in. Willing to sell a fe...
06/03/2023

If anyone has interest, I just got some flasks of C. labiata 'Cedarwood's Thrall' AM/AOS x self in. Willing to sell a few flasks. Will also have 6-packs and individual seedlings available after summer, if you prefer to wait. $60/flask. These should be quite good, with large, heavy sunstance flowers 17cm+ held strongly. 3-5 years to bloom.

Phalaenopsis sanderiana is a Philippine species and a major source of pink in standard phalaenopsis breeding lines. This...
05/28/2023

Phalaenopsis sanderiana is a Philippine species and a major source of pink in standard phalaenopsis breeding lines. This species produces up to 20, 7-8cm flowers on a sometimes branching raceme. Though the leaves are not as boldly patterned on the surface as Phal. schilleriana or stuartiana, Phal. sanderiana does have silver mottling, and many individuals have deep purple suffusion of leaf undersides. The overall effect is very attractive, in or out of bloom, and a specimen plant is truly a sight to see.
This species and the closely related Phal. amabilis were the orchids that caught my eye in an old copy of Exotica, over 25 years ago, and both are central to the building of standard hybrid lines. Many people find Phalaenopsis fairly boring, especially the standards, but I have always found interest in the species, even those that are in the background of standard desk plant Phalaenopsis. They wouldn't be a cash crop if they didn't still catch the eye, eh? But still, there's something very special about the dedication that goes into line breeding a pure species, which may see marked improvement in form over wild populations, but ultimately is just a refined possibility from extant natural genetics. It's the plant breeding equivalent of a really good haiku. There may be less creative wiggle room, but the results can be profound in their simple beauty. This first bloom seedling is just opening, but shows a lot of potential. I got this plant from Peter at Big Leaf Orchids. I definitely have some ideas of my own with it.
The benefit of standard Phalaenopsis species is they don't generally have much more in the way of requirements than their hybrid offspring. They may be more strongly seasonal or perhaps not bloom quite so impressively relative to plant size, but standard mid-light, warm temp, moderate to high humidity conditions will suit them fine. Of the sections of the genus, this group is best suited to a reduction of light and cooler temperatures that may come with winter in an average home in temperate areas. Section Polychilos, with such species as tetrapsis and bellina do NOT appreciate cool downs, especially if wet, and the semi-deciduous species like deliciosa prefer sharper cooling than most of us are comfortable with in our homes. But if you like your environment hot and humid or cool and dry, those groups may be more suited, respectfully. If you're successful with hybrid Phalaenopsis and want to explore species, why not the ones that are 60+% of those hybrids' backrounds?

Cattleya warscewiczii f. alba ('Firmin Lambeau' FCC/RHS  x 'Kathleen' AM/AOS), first bloom seedling. Normally pink with ...
05/26/2023

Cattleya warscewiczii f. alba ('Firmin Lambeau' FCC/RHS x 'Kathleen' AM/AOS), first bloom seedling. Normally pink with an amethyst lip, C. warscewiczii is known as the king of Cattleyas, boasting on average the largest flowers in the genus, some reaching 10" wide, and when mature and very happy, it can approach among the highest counts of flowers per stem, up to a dozen on very fine specimens. Native to wet, tropical montane forests in Colombia alongside the yellow C. (dowiana f.) aurea, and participates in the syngameon C. x hardyana, one of the most spectacular natural hybrids in the Orchidacea.
The alba mutation shown here results in a flower (and plant) fully devoid of any anthocyanin, with only the carotenoids, which are separately coded, remaining as a yellow infusion in the throat. This form is beautiful in its own subtle way; delicate and serene. The cultivar 'Firmin Lambeau' was a wild plant, awarded over a century ago, and figures heavily in early 20th century breeding lines of standard alba hybrids, particularly for development of June white bridal orchids for the cut flower trade. The original plant was once sold for huge prices, including Coca-Cola stock that is now its own fortune, and remains a stalwart breeding stud for large size.
Of the labiate Cattleyas, C. warsewiczii is not the easiest to grow in the deep south and gulf coast, being higher growing, subject to a rather strict grow, bloom, root, and rest cycle through the year, with not a full dry rest but certainly a marked reduction of water in the winter. The result of not respecting seasonal cycles is that rot or other damage to roots in late fall through winter cannot be compensated for until early summer, when new growths swell as they flower, running on the reserve of previous growths, THEN root, just before the heavier rains of summer return in the Colombian highlands.
People say bifoliates are picky about potting and rooting, but really any Laeliinae from seasonally dry regions will have some version of deliberate seasons of specific types of growth, both to conserve energy and ensure maximal reproduction. By resting in the drier, cooler winter, the plant is not burdening its roots needing water that isn't there to grow leaves, and blooming just before the rainy season ensures flowers aren't beat up by torrents before being pollinated, and just as seed capsules start to swell and roots start to grow, there will be ample water to fill growing tissues. While it is possible to lose some root mass to dessication by keeping them too dry, once the days really begin to shorten in the fall, it is best to err on the side of dry for this species, as well as other higher growing species: dowiana/aurea and rex.
Moreover, the high elevation and high position in the canopy C. warscewiczii occupies makes it one of the most light hungry AND cool "tolerant" of the standard Cattleyas. That is to say, because of elevation, especially in the drier season, temperatures drop as low as the 58-60F range at night. The thin atmosphere warms quickly in the day, but flower spikes elongate, colour up, and expand best with cooler nights and honestly more temperate days than many of us near the gulf coast can achieve in greenhouses or outdoors in late May and early June. Growing higher elevation species primarily indoors under lights as I do, I have less of that to worry about, but the plants can also be brought in when the buds begin to show in sheaths, and kept on a windowsill or under lights near an air vent or other microclimate where temps are moderated during bud growth. One can even artificially cool a greenhouse at night! Honestly, most labiate Cattleya species would appreciate it!
Modern line-bred examples of this species have been more or less deliberately bred for vigour (Fred at Sunset Valley Orchids has done GREAT work selecting for heavy rooters) as well as flower form, and are often quite tolerant of warmer than ideal temperatures year round, but still the closer one can come to ideal conditions just before and during flowering will encourage the best of a plant's potential. The combination of timing potting, watering, and conditions at flowering time can seem like a tall order but to see a mature C. warsewiczii specimen in full bloom with a massive, rod-straight stem of 10 or more enormous flowers is well worth the effort, in my opinion. Nothing beats seeing the king of Cattleyas in all its regal glory.

Cymbidium aloifolium putting on its yearly show
05/26/2023

Cymbidium aloifolium putting on its yearly show

Tolumnia hamiltonii Sauleda 2019,  a Jamaican twig epiphyte with large flowers relative to the plant. This species and T...
05/17/2023

Tolumnia hamiltonii Sauleda 2019, a Jamaican twig epiphyte with large flowers relative to the plant. This species and Tolu. guttata, another pink species, produce a hybrid swarm, or syngameon, known as Tolu. x pulchella, that many may have known as a species for many years. Published in 2019, once the hybrid origin was understood, many fine, large-lipped, select pulchella over the years may have been nearly or entirely hamiltonii, in reality.
Uncommon in cultivation, Tolumnia once had a thriving US hybridization boom in the late 20th century, starting largely with the efforts of the great and prolific hybridizer, Goodale W.W. Moir. Starting in the 1950s, he popularized what were often called "Moir's weeds," as they were seen as insignificant roadside flowers among locals across the Caribbean. In the late 1990s, Richella Orchids and Robert and Susan Perreiras of Hawaii and Sundance Orchids of Galveston, TX took breeding of these charming plants to a zenith. These days, Tolumnia are rarer and rarer in collections and shows, which is truly a shame, as they have many good selling points. The plants are small (though some species have strongly scandent, stoloniferous growth), thrive in heat, humidity, and breeze, can be grown alongside Cattleyas or even Vandas, and they can achieve specimen size in a 3-4" pot full of fans of fleshy, succulent leaves. They come in a range of colours from white to yellow, pink, purple, and red, variously spotted, barred, flushed, and veined with colours and patterns that may develop, change, or fade as flowers open and expand. Finally, they have a primary flush of long-lasting blooms, most species starting in early spring, then the spikes branch and rebloom, quite frequently resulting in blooms well into summer, even fall for the later bloomers.
So why aren't they more popular? For starters, with the loss of commercial breeders working in the genus domestically, and paucity of imports from other countries, Tolumnia have really dropped off the sales tables in the US. Furthermore, Tolumnia have a reputation as "difficult" or "quick to die." The key to this issue is in the natural adaptations of Tolumnia. The triquetrous, succulent leaves of Tolumnia, as well as their scrambling, wiry roots are evolved for twig epiphytism. The species grow in scrubby trees, shrubs, even tropical cacti, and are evolved to inhabit thin branches well-exposed to sea breezes, humidity, frequent rains, and nightly mists as humidity in air off the water comes ashore and condenses as it rises up island elevation. This bright, airy, frequently moistened but fast to dry environment requires significant adaptation to explore a niche with few epiphytic competitors for light. Tolumnia breed and grow FAST, under two years seed to bloom, allowing them to colonize new growth and exploit disturbed habitats, often some of the first vegetation to reestablish after hurricanes. Their thickened leaves are evolved to hold water and reduce surface to volume ratio, preserving water like other succulent plants' leaves or stems. Their very fine, wiry roots are designed to tangle around bare twigs, fully exposed to breezes and evaporation. The elegance of their adaptation to what amounts to clinging to twigs in prime hurricane territory means one important thing: Tolumnia cannot live with wet feet. They absolutely must be bone dry within 24-48 hours after watering. Wet feet means rot, which moves very quickly through fine roots and the very tiny pseudobulbs in leaf fans. Large plants can often rot out from the middle virtually overnight, if mix stays wet and goes sour. I grow my young plants in loose sphagnum, straight, in very small pots; 1.5-2". The pots themselves sit in direct line of the grow room fan, drying fully within 2 days. I mist every other day, water heavily once a week, and once they come out of 2" pots, they are mounted or set in baskets with little or no media, often simply lined with live Tillandsia unesoides or loose coconut fiber. In fact tillandsias make such good companions for these tiny Oncidium relatives, I often drape a little unesoides or attach other small species to mounts along with them. Some species that are very scandent are usually mounted on branching, twiggy mounts they can freely climb.
If you can keep Tillandsia happy *and blooming,* I highly recommend adding some Tolumnia to the same growing space. Their delightful, reblooming clouds of flowers over very compact foliage are an excellent reward for attention to their specific needs as twig epiphytes. We expect to begin offering species and hybrids of Tolumnia and related genera in the next couple of years.

Cattleya kerrii is a Brazilian bifoliate (technically. Most growths hold one leaf) from Bahía State, where it grows in h...
05/14/2023

Cattleya kerrii is a Brazilian bifoliate (technically. Most growths hold one leaf) from Bahía State, where it grows in humid, swampy conditions as an epiphyte. Uncommon in collections, this species is outshone by larger relatives that produce more flowers. Though an interesting subject 3-4 flowers is maximum for this species. It also has a deserved reputation for being difficult to establish if repot timing isn't right. The Brazilian bifoliate s are generally pouty about root damage or loss, and this is doubly true of kerrii, which has very thin pseudobulbs with limited water storage. On top of this, it is a decidedly deliberate seasonal grower. They root only after flowering, as spring shifts to summer, growing through the rainy season, then rest as fall shifts to winter. If roots are damaged or rotted after they stop growing, they cannot be replaced and when new leads break in spring, they won't have the roots necessary to support them, and the entire plant can decline rapidly. If the strongly seasonal habits are respected, though, Cattleya kerrii is no tougher to bloom than C. intermedia or bicolor.
As a candidate for hybridization, kerri is generally passed over. There's not much the flower offers that can't be better had from other species. However, for the lover of bifoliate Cattleya species, it's a charming, if stubborn, addition to a collection. That is, if one can find them for sale. It does remain relatively uncommon in cultivation. I was surprised to find this one out of Fred Clarke's breeding (Sunset Valley Orchids) at a small show. Unfortunately, this is just a collection plant, as it is likely a sterile triploid, given one parent is tetraploid and one is diploid.
If you love bifoliate Cattleyas and oddities, Cattleya kerrii takes up very little space, doesn't demand near as much light as its larger cousins, and who doesn't like to brag about growing a "difficult" species well?

Miltoniopsis phalaenopsis 'John Leathers' AM/AOS is a cool-growing member of the so-called "pansy orchids" from Colombia...
05/14/2023

Miltoniopsis phalaenopsis 'John Leathers' AM/AOS is a cool-growing member of the so-called "pansy orchids" from Colombia. A cloud forest species, these grow high up in the Andes where they receive fog, mist, and rain constantly, with their roots entwined in constantly moist, living moss. It prefers temperatures between 55F and 75F, and can handle days up to 85F for part of the year, given nightly cool downs below 65F with humidity ranging 65-100%. The thin grassy leaves can be easily damaged by fungi and bacteria, so the air must be cool, moist, but constantly moving to prevent the stagnation pathogens prefer.
I've always loved the full form and delicate beauty of Miltoniopsis, plus they have lovely floral fragrances. Most of them l, however, are ultimately too large for me to devote limited cool growing space to. Miltoniopsis phalaenopsis has the distinction of having thin, grassy leaves that only get about 20-25cm tall. Because of it's small stature and showy flowers, it has a welcome spot in my wardian case, and breeding program, along with Mps. bismarckii, as they are the smallest species in the genus. Both make excellent subjects for the cool wardian case/orchidarium/grow tent. Mps. phalaenopsis' contribution to Miltoniopsis breeding cannot be understated. Every waterfall lip you might see on any Miltoniopsis hybrid came from this species. Modern hybrids take the trait into 14-15cm flowers in deep velvety reds, blush pinks, even nearly black and white and yellow.
Long conflated with their cousins in Brazil, the Miltonias, which have wildly different needs. Though they both have large, lips on starry, fragrant flowers, so if you cannot provide cloud forest conditions, look for Miltonias like spectabilis, moreliana, regnelii, and flavescens. All these species can be grown reasonably easily in regular greenhouse or home (provided high humidity) conditions and share many of the aesthetic qualities of their more delicate cousins.

Oncostele Tan Treasures 'Brown Sugar' AM/AOS is a complex intergeneric mostly made up of cool growing former Odontogloss...
05/14/2023

Oncostele Tan Treasures 'Brown Sugar' AM/AOS is a complex intergeneric mostly made up of cool growing former Odontoglossum species. In fact, though intergenerics are generally considered intermediate plants for the home, some are definitely at their best grown to the cooler side of intermediate. Here you see the difference a year makes, when you compare last year's bloom (3rd pic) that happened in the intermediate-to-warm grow room, versus the current inflorescence (1 and 2). Increased flower count, improved form, and more saturated colour are all a result of growing this intergeneric in cool temps, high humidity, and bright, filtered light.

I highly recommend orchidroots.com as a user-friendly resource to look up parentage of orchid hybrids before you buy. Being sure you're buying orchids that like at least close to the conditions that you can readily provide will greatly increase success and satisfaction.

Someone once told me that you can really call yourself a good orchid grower when you can make Sophronitis coccinea happy...
05/14/2023

Someone once told me that you can really call yourself a good orchid grower when you can make Sophronitis coccinea happy. I guess I earned my stripes, today. Really I think it just speaks to my feral engineering skills. This was a cheap plant I bought from Ecuagenera as part of the selected group of cool growers, when I first built the cool tent for proof of concept. To my surprise, not only did it bloom seven months after bare root importation, but it has pretty damn good form, considering its recent establishment and I didn't know the pedigree on it *and* it only cost like $12 or something. But this is legitimately a "more advanced" species. They grow fairly bright on pretty exposed, smaller branches in cloud forest canopies. They enjoy strong but filtered light, constantly high humidity, frequent waterings but plenty of air at the roots, and require cool night temps, even though they can tolerate the occasional hot day. Truly, they are difficult to keep completely happy because it can be difficult to check all those environmental boxes consistently, outside of a wardian case or happening to live in the Pacific northwest. Tropical cloud forests are a very specific biome with very specific conditions that fall generally outside the typical home or greenhouse environmental conditions. Despite their negative reputation for being sulky and dramatic in marginal conditions, like most orchids they are actually quite vigorous and rewarding if you can just provide the conditions they have evolved to fit.
Though I've always enjoyed the Sophronitis species, and they are excellent parents if you like to work with flat, round reds, they have a few traits that make them not ideal for my breeding program. For starters, though they are sure fire form fixers, most are strictly single-flowered and will strongly reduce flower count for several generations, as well and passing on floppy pedicels and an unruly, floppy growth habit. Sophronitis definitely live in three dimensions, wrapping all around their host branches, flowers extending our laterally to beckon hummingbird pollinators. More to the point, as a Texan breeder, I do not in the least have the space to grow a bunch of seedlings out with the Sophronitis penchant for cool nights. Down here, all the Sophronitis but cernua--and their close hybrids--have serious trouble with colour stability. The pigments involved in this eye-searing red are not correctly produced without consistently cool, humid nights. Flowers also have issues expanding correctly in high temperatures and/or low humidity, and consistently high temperatures weaken plants and make them more susceptible to pathogens.
I do devote the very small space needed for a few of these species in the cool tent because they are independently showy and satisfying on their own. Soph. coccinea has been extensively line-bred and vigorous plants with great form are affordable and easy to find. Some of the other species are less domesticated, as it were, but select cultivars of the pink wittigiana, more compact brevipedunculata, and the multifloral, warmer-growing, orange-red cernua are generally available, if you know where to look. All are excellent miniatures in a cool orchidarium except cernua, which prefers intermediate to warm temperatures, as well as drier conditions.

Phalaenopsis philippinensis (and a dedicated pest control staff member), from the Philippines, as you may have guessed. ...
05/13/2023

Phalaenopsis philippinensis (and a dedicated pest control staff member), from the Philippines, as you may have guessed. This lovely species has large, showy, white flowers with pink flushing on reverse, and a lip with bright yellow side lobes and bold red striping in the lip. At maturity, the inflorescence is paniculate, that is it exhibits secondary, sometimes even tertiary branching, as opposed to the standard shingled raceme of Phal. amabilis. Not only is this species highly floriferous, but the leaves have boldly silver and green mottled leaves with more or less purple flushing on the reverse, and flattened, silvery roots with a rugose texture that looks like hammered ribbons of metal with deep green tips. All of these interesting characteristics make Phal. philippinensis an excellent choice for mounting, allowing an appreciation for the whole plant, including the all important epiphytic roots, which are designed not just to absorb water, but hold it, as well as grip the bark of trees.
Along with Phal. stuartiana and schilleriana, this species figures heavily in the old French Spot style of multifloral Phalaenopsis developed in, obviously, France in the early to mid 20th century. Though the leaf patterns are easily lost or muted, sometimes even in line breeding the species when selecting for other traits, the branching inflorescences and 3-4" flower size with mesmerizing spot patterns were popular for some time, but it was kind of a fad, and they did have their drawbacks. 80, 4" flowers are great but that requires a lot of space. Also, the natural habit of these is a cascading canopy above the hanging leaves, so they can be unruly to stake, and top heavy, especially in a breeze. This sort of breeding has been rather outcompeted in the marketplace in recent decades by development of Harlequin breeding, mostly out of Japan and Taiwan, which actually began as blending French Spot, traditional Dinner Plate Standards, and so-called "novelty" reds, the last two of which lend straight, orderly, unbranched spikes and short spacing, stem sturdiness, and heavy substance of flowers as improvements over diaphanous flowers spread out across several cubic feet of space. Meanwhile multifloral breeding of today has used Phal. equestris to create much more dense, compact stems that take up much less space, even if they do branch and make dozens of flowers per spike.
The heavily import-based pot plant market is largely responsible for shaping these breeding choices, as many millions of orchids are shipped worldwide in bud and bloom each year. Mothers' Day is peak Phalaenopsis sales season in stores, as you cannot help to notice, this week. Now, many people will denigrate "grocery store phalaenopsis," but they are a gateway into the wide, fascinating world of orchids. Now, we can talk about how limited a pallet of choices the economic realities of outsourced production of *everything* is able to bear, and what that does to innovation. We *need* to be having that talk about our entire economy. But there is certainly enough value in these "trash" orchids; enough to fuel multi-billion dollar annual profits globally. Today's Mothers' Day gift is next year's dedicated passion. I will always encourage people to seek beyond what Home Depot can logistically offer, especially if it means cutting out a middle man and newly or directly patronizing local business--especially small-scale breeders. Innovation and dedication to craft comes from diversification of opportunity, not restriction. The next great orchid breeder could be seeing their first home depot Phalaenopsis and tugging at grandma's sleeve right now.

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Huntsville, TX

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