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A1 Aeration, Tempe, AZ (2026)

05/31/2026

What do 70° nighttime temperatures mean?

*Bermuda-Grass is fully awake and now needs regular fertilization. 21-0-0 is recommended if you haven't had a soil test. Apply approximately 5lbs per 1000ft². Apply every 4-6 weeks. Always fertilize in the evening if possible and soak it in immediately.

*Watering should be between 1.25-1.5 inches per lawn zone, per week. Deep water 2-3 times per week, early morning 4-5 am. Please note: If you have been watering your bermuda grass daily or even multiple times per day DO NOT just switch to deep watering 2 -3 times per week abruptly, you will send your lawn into shock. You will need to retrain your lawn, soil, and roots slowly, over time. Example: Start by switching to watering every other day this season, then next year switch to 3 times per week and so on.

*Mow frequently, at least one time per week is recommended. This will help the bermuda grass to use its energy to spread rather than growing vertically. Bag the clipping to help prevent the spread of w**ds.

*Spot treat w**ds and unwanted grasses with targeted post emergents. Read and follow the directions for each product. You want to apply post emergents before the temperatures get too hot.

*A light de-thatch, just above the soil surface to remove dead ryegrass and other built-up thatch without disturbing the bermuda grass as much as possible. This will allow sunlight to reach the bermuda grass root base and stimulate new growth.

*Core Aeration - This is a great time to start planning on getting this done. Core Aeration helps alleviate soil compaction, allowing water, nutrients, and oxygen to get deeper into the soil. This will help grow stronger and deeper roots, resulting in a more healthy and resilient lawn.

Reach out anytime to make an appointment - A1 Aeration

**This is just a general guide line and may not apply to all lawns and situations.

05/03/2026

Time to Fertilize?

Now that our nighttime temperatures here in the Valley are going to be consistently in the mid-60's or higher, our summer grasses should be awake and growing.

At this point in the season, for the average bermuda lawn, you should have already:

*Checked your sprinklers for proper functioning and coverage.

*Cut the grass very short.

*Started your deep watering, infrequently.

*Raked or lightly de-thatched the dead ryegrass out or just some of that dead bermuda grass thatch. This allows sunlight to get to the root base to stimulate faster growth.

For those that started the process earlier, you have applied one light round of fertilizer.

If you have not started this processes at all (force transitioning), start this NOW!

For those that have completed all the steps above, your bermuda grass is now ready for a full around of fertilization. In most cases, ammonium sulfate 21-0-0 will work great. Apply at the rate of approximately 5lbs per 1000ft². Apply this same amount every 4-6 weeks during the bermuda grass growing season. During the warmer / hot months, it's best fertilize in the evening if possible, and soak it in immediately. Run your full deep soak cycle. This will help prevent chemical burn.

How much should we be currently watering?

With the nighttime temperatures in mid-60's, soon to be 70's, we should be at approximately 1 inch of water per week, increasing up to 1.5 inches per week as the temperatures rise.

If you have not already, you need to make sure your sprinkers are working properly and measure your sprinklers water output to know these measurements. This is the first and most important step to having and maintaining a healthy bermuda summer lawn. This is called a sprinker output audit (irrigation audit) or the old school term "tuna can method." The basic idea is to put multiple water collection cups (more the better) like these found on Amazon:

https://a.co/d/02CPa2fB

Strategically place them around the lawn per each lawn zone area, requiring one measurement test per lawn zone. Run your sprinklers for a set amount of time, say 15 minutes or 30 minutes depending on your type of sprinkers, then measure the amount of water in the collection cups. Let's say hypothetically it was 1/4 of an inch on average throughout the cups, you would now know it took 15 minutes to achieve 1/4 inch of water in that lawn zone. Repeat the process for each zone. This is a very simple way to at least get a general idea of your sprinkers output. There are way more in depth methods to get a more accurate measurement but this is a very simple way to get the basic idea of your watering amount / time per lawn zone. AZ LAWN DAD offers this as a service, it is well worth the money. He does a very thorough and detailed irrigation audit. Reach out to him for Sand Leveling as well, he's the best.

NOW is the time to get your lawn soil some Core Aeration! I offer this service and I have the best rates in the Valley. Reach out anytime, A1 Aeration. Also, every aeration comes with a free basic lawn consultation.

Please read my last post about "Soil Health." Our desert soils do not hold a high nutrient value, and it requires more effort than other soils, in other regions. Research products like Biochar, Humic Acid, Granular Gypsum, Kelp, Worm Castings, W**d Free High Nutrient Compost etc.. These help improve soil structure, help retain moisture, and introduce beneficial microbes that are often absent in desert soil. They are best applied right after Core Aeration, to get the maximum benefits. Also, remember this is NOT a one and done situation. Aeration and adding valuable nutrients/microbes is recommended to do on a regular/ annual basis to maintain good soil health here in the desert.

If you would like to learn more about all that is soil health, reach out to The Garden Nerd:

https://www.facebook.com/share/1JGyybukeh/.

Michael is a wealth of knowledge and offers this as a service as well. Highly recommend!

(*This is just a general guideline and may not apply to every lawn or situation.)

04/11/2026

*Soil Conditioning = Healthy Lawn*

Keeping your lawn soil in the best condition possible will ensure you have a healthy green lawn throughout the summer.

Soil testing - It's very smart to start here. Testing your lawn soil and knowing exactly what it needs is 100% recommended. Knowing your soil nutrient levels is very crucial for choosing the correct fertilizers and amendments. Testing will help you choose the correct products and how much is needed, instead of wasting money and time on products you may not even need.

Here are a couple of links for soil testing:

Andersons Lawn

https://andersonslawn.com/products/soil-test-and-probe?_pos=2&_sid=1d00ff2ca&_ss=r

OR

Texas A&M

https://soiltesting.tamu.edu/ #:~:text=The%20laboratory%20is%20open%20Monday%20through%20Friday,The%20laboratory's%20phone%20number%20is%20(979)%20321%2D5960

These are easy to use. Just follow the instructions provided, and you'll usually get the results rather quickly. For the first time, make sure to order a Stainless Steel Soil Sample Probe to make it easier to collect an accurate soil sample. Here is an Amazing Link: https://a.co/d/0dbU8qes

Lawn Aeration - This is a very important step, especially here in Arizona, with our type of soil composition (desert loam). Core Aeration helps alleviate soil compaction and increases water absorption. This allows the water, nutrients, and oxygen to get deeper into the soil, building stronger deeper roots. Aeration is recommended annually to maintain proper soil conditions. A1 Aeration

Adding organic materials - such as compost, humic acid, biochar, worm castings, kelp (and many others) to desert lawn soil dramatically improves its ability to hold water and nutrients, which are commonly lost due to our harsh desert environment. It breaks up compacted, dense, or caliche soils to improve air circulation, promotes deep root growth, and adds beneficial microbes to boost soil fertility.

The Benefits -

*Drastically Improved Water Retention: Organic matter acts like a sponge, helping arid soil hold water, which reduces the need for frequent irrigation.

*Enhanced Nutrient Availability: It adds crucial organic nutrients, breaking down over time to feed the soil, unlike inorganic fertilizers that quickly leach away.

*Soil Structure Amendment: It helps bond sand particles together and breaks up heavy, dense clay particles, creating a better environment for grass roots.

*Reduced Soil Temperature: Adding organic matter helps keep soil temperatures cooler, which reduces stress on grass roots during extreme heat.

*Reduced Compaction: It improves aeration and drainage, allowing roots to breathe and grow deeper.

How to Apply:

Topdressing: Spread a thin layer (about 1/4 inch) of compost or compost mixed with sand over the lawn, ideally combined with Core Aeration to help the organic material pe*****te deep into the soil.

AZ Worm Farm is a great place to purchase nutrient rich soil, here's a link: https://share.google/EmvVr0sWCPFwhXH4p

(Important: when adding organic materials to your lawn, ALWAYS make sure you know the source and that it is as w**d / w**d seed free as possibe)

Another product that is highly recommended and helps rebuild / maintain soil structure is HumiChar by The Andersons -

HumiChar acts as a soil amendment in desert environments by increasing water retention, improving nutrient uptake, and boosting microbial activity, directly counteracting sandy or poor soil conditions. Its 50/50 mix of biochar and humic acid uses Dispersible Granule (DG) Technology to move into the root zone, reducing nutrient leaching and helping lawns withstand extreme heat and drought stress. Here's a link for this product:

https://andersonslawn.com/products/humichar?srsltid=AfmBOopmN1BeIKxt4adtvFjZu3-63oS5X3Ww4q6XRsCiiuA75UR-OSwC&variant=47528653947126

HumiChar, along with other soil conditioners like Granular Gypsum, are best applied after Core Aeration.

Sanding - Sanding lawns in Arizona offer several benefits, primarily focusing on improving soil health and structure, particularly in the face of this state's harsh climate and soil conditions. Sanding can enhance drainage, aeration, and water retention, leading to healthier, more resilient grass. It also helps to level uneven lawns and can reduce thatch buildup (Note: there is no nutrient value in sand and this should only be done on lawns that are ready for this process).

Sanding should only be done when the Bermuda-Grass is growing strong, typically late-May through July. Core Aeration is highly recommended prior to sanding. This will greatly increase the effectiveness of the process. If you are in the East /Central Valley, reach out to AZ Lawn Dad (Justin 760-525-2087) for more information on this subject.

*This post is only a general guideline and may not apply to every lawn or circumstance.

03/22/2026

Do you know the water output of your lawns sprinkler system?

This is the MOST important step of having and maintaining a healthy summer lawn.

Here's a simple and effective way to measure your lawn sprinklers water output:

The tuna can method: It is a simple, effective technique for calibrating lawn irrigation, ensuring the grass receives the recommended 1.5-2 inches of water per week during our hot summer months.

How to Execute the Tuna Can Method
Setup:

Place several empty, clean tuna or cat food cans (with lids/product removed) in different areas of your lawn to catch sprinkler water. You want to do this test on every lawn zone independently. So if you have 2 seperate zones, you'll need to run 2 separate tests.

Water: Turn on your sprinkler system, one zone at a time, so it can run for a long period of time, and check the cans periodically to see how long it takes for them to fill.

Measure: The average tuna can is roughly 1 inch deep. When the cans are filled to the top (or to a marked 1/2-inch line), record the time elapsed.

Analyze: If it takes 30 minutes to fill a can 1/2 inch, you know your system’s rate is 1 inch per hour, allowing you to set a precise, efficient watering schedule.

Key Tips

Goal: Summer time watering, aim for 1.5-2 inches of water per week, usually broken into two to three sessions of 1/2–1 inch each, rather than shallow daily watering.

Timing: Water in the early morning to minimize evaporation.

Efficiency: If some cans have significantly less water than others, your sprinkler system may have poor coverage or malfunctioning heads.

Spring is the best time for a Sprinkler Tune-up. I do provide this service along with many other reputable companies throughout the valley.

Once you have accomplished measuring your sprinkers water output, you will now be ready for the next steps which I will discuss in my upcoming posts.

With the warmer weather coming earlier this year, the Core Aeration season is starting sooner. Now is the time to think about scheduling this for the spring. A1 Aeration

*This post is just a general guideline and may not apply to every lawn or situation.

03/08/2026

Spring Transition for Non-Over-Seeded Lawns

When night time temperatures stay above 65 degrees for at least one week, it is time to start the process.

1. Begin by lowering your mowing height. Lower your mower to "scalp" the lawn to 1/2–3/4 inch, removing all brown winter growth and bagging it.

2. Rake or lightly dethatch your lawn to remove any dead grass or thatch that may hinder the sunlight from reaching the new plant growth. Higher temperatures and sunlight are key components to a smooth and effective transition.

3. Sprinkler Tune-up. Go through your irrigation system and make sure everything is working and adjusted correctly. It's better to get this done early, rather than in the heat of the spring/summer. This is a service I provide, along with many other companies throughout the valley.

4. Increase watering to twice per week. Start at approximately 1 inch per week. Deeper watering will encourage the root system to begin to flourish once again. Bermuda grass stores nitrogen while it is dormant and will naturally use this nitrogen as it's waking up. There is no need to fertilize just yet.

5. Mow often to keep the lawn from shading itself. The more sunlight that can reach the root base the better.

6. Once your lawn is coming out of dormancy and actively growing and greening up, this is the time for the first light application of fertilizer. Start with a lower amount of nitrogen, 21-0-0 at the rate of 2-3 lbs per 1000ft². Then about 3 weeks later fertilize again with a higher nitrogen amount 21-0-0 at approximately proximately 5-6 lbs per 1000 ft².

Core Aeration - Once your Bermuda Grass is fully coming out of dormancy, this is the start of Aeration season. Aeration will help alleviate soil compaction and increases absorption of water, nutrients, and oxygen. Core Aeration will help the roots get deep into the soil, helping the Bermuda Grass thrive during the hot summer months while using less water.

*Please remember this is just a general guide and may not apply to every lawn /situation.

02/28/2026

When should we transition our winter lawn to summer lawn?

Over-Seeded Lawns:

When the nighttime temperatures reach 65 degrees, consistently for more than a week.

Reduce watering by 70%. DO NOT stop watering as this will stress out your Bermuda Grass that's trying to come out of dormancy.

Begin to reduce the height of cut each time you mow, 1/3 lower each time until your ryegrass is cut very short. This allows sunlight to reach the Bermuda Grass

Over the next couple of weeks the Rye Grass will yellow/brown and start to die off. When you see this happen, start your deep watering 2 times per week. Approximately 1 inch of water per week to start.

Once you see the Bermuda Grass turning green and actively growing up through the dying Rye Grass, fertilize with a light amount of a balanced fertilizer like a 10-10-10. Make sure to always fertilize in the evening and soak it in immediately and once again in the morning.

After the Bermuda Grass has taken over, continue to increase watering and now start fertilizing with a higher nitrogen fertilizer 21-0-0. Approximately 5 lbs per 1000 ft² every 4-6 weeks.

As the temperatures increase, you will also increase your watering, maxing out at 1.5-2 inches per week as we get into summer. The best watering method for level lawns is deep watering 2-3 times per week, early morning, 4-5 am.

To take more control and force the Rye Grass to die out more rapidly, there are selective herbicides that will kill off the Rye and will not harm the Bermuda. Make sure to follow the instructions on these. Golf courses and lawn enthusiasts prefer this method.

Once the Rye Grass turns yellow/brown, you can LIGHTLY dethatch, but remember, you DO NOT want to stress out the Bermuda Grass. Only lower the dethatcher enough to run through the rye grass and not the bermuda as much as possible.

AERATION SEASON BEGINS: When your Bermuda Grass is actively growing and coming out of dormancy. Aeration will help alleviate soil compaction and increases absorption of water, nutrients, and oxygen. I am starting to book appointments for Spring Aerations.

Now is the time for a SPRINKER TUNE-UP!..before the weather gets too hot. I do offer this service starting at $120.00 plus parts. Text for more details and to setup an appointment - A1 Aeration 480-276-8222

For those of us that did NOT overseed with ryegrass? This will be the next topic/post soon.

*Please remember this is a general guide line and will not apply to every lawn / circumstance.

02/02/2026

I hope everyone has been having a good winter season. Here are some lawn tips for what we should be doing in the late winter months*

For those who did NOT plant a winter lawn:

February is a great time to apply a pre-emergent. A good brand commonly used is Andersons Barricade, which you can only find online andersonslawn.com, free delivery. Another option will be at your local Ewing Irrigations Supply. Call ahead to see what they have in stock for their pre-emergent used on lawns. Pre-emergents will help control w**ds from growing and spreading in the early spring months, when you begin watering more. Your bermuda grass is still mostly dormant and you should still only be watering approximately 0.5 inches per month. You will increase your watering when the temperatures increase here in March. Do NOT apply any fertilizers until your bermuda grass is completely coming out of dormancy. I will talk more about this in my next post.

Sprinkler Tune Time:

February and March are the best months to give your sprinkers, valves and controllers a tune up. Doing this soon will help you avoid any issues when the temperatures are hot and any sprinker issues could result in damaging your bermuda grass. I do offer this service at a very reasonable rate. Reach out anytime to set up an appointment.

For those who planted winter ryegrass:

February will be the last suggested time to apply a round of fertilization. 21-0-0 will work great at the application rate of approximately 5lbs per 1000ft². This should be enough fertilization until it's time to force transition your lawn back to the bermuda grass. I will talk more about this transition in a later post.

Now is the time to apply your late winter pre-emergent. A good brand commonly used is Andersons Barricade, which you can only find online andersonslawn.com, free delivery. Another option will be at your local Ewing Irrigations Supply. Call ahead to see what they have in stock for their pre-emergent used on lawns. Pre-emergents will help control w**ds from growing and spreading in the early spring months.

You can apply granular fertilizers and pre-emergents at the same time.

For those with larger w**d issues:

Post-emergents can still he used in early February but I highly recommend only using the spot spray method and follow the product label instructions exactly. Your bermuda lawn will be fully coming out of dormancy in March and we don't want to interfere with that process.

Stay tuned for more lawn related posts throughout the season.

*This is a general guideline and may not apply to every lawn or situation.

11/12/2025

Watering / Fertilization schedule for established winter ryegrass:

October - Planting Ryegrass
November - Every 3-5 days
December & January - Every 7-10 days
February - Every 5-7 days
March - Every 3-5 days

General watering tips:

Water deeply: Run your sprinklers long enough to moisten the soil 4-6 inches deep. Use a screwdriver to check for this after watering. Let the first 1-2 inches of soil almost completely dry in-between waterings.

Water in the early morning: This allows the grass blades to dry during the day and helps prevent disease.

Adjust for weather: Reduce or skip watering after significant rainfall.

Avoid overwatering: Water less frequently and more deeply to prevent the root from rotting and fungal diseases.

Skip watering on frost days: Condensation on the blades may be sufficient on those days.

Water amounts and times will vary: Every lawn / environment is different (type of soil, weather, sun / shade, sprinkler setup etc..).

The general rule: Keep moisture in the first 4-6 inches without the soil being muddy or too soft (use the screwdriver test for this). Let the first 1-2 inches dry in-between waterings and when you are ready to mow.

Fertilizing winter ryegrass:

After the winter ryegrass is established (approximately 4-6 weeks after germination): Fertilize every 4-6 weeks using 21-0-0 at the rate 5lbs per 1000ft². No other fertilizer can be recommended without having soil test.

For a deeper green lawn: Apply iron a couple of times throughout the winter. Ace Hardware has a good brand called ‘Earth Science’. Follow the instructions on the label.

For those who DID NOT plant a winter lawn:

Once the nighttime temperatures are consistently in the 50's: Reduce watering to approximately 1 inch per month. Water less if we get any significant rainfall or if the nighttime temperatures stay below 40 degrees for a period of time.

*This is a general guideline and may not apply to every lawn or situation.

10/14/2025

Temperatures in the coming weeks are absolutely perfect for winter ryegrass seeding. On average the optimal window for installing your winter lawn is mid October through early November.

09/28/2025

Not planting a winter lawn? Here are some tips that will ensure a healthy lawn for the next season.

Aerate the lawn: Aerating in the early fall (September- October) improves air circulation and helps nutrients/water reach the roots more effectively.

Apply a potassium-rich fertilizer: In the fall, switch from a high-nitrogen fertilizer to a potassium-heavy, very low nitrogen/nitrogen-free formula. This strengthens the roots and hardens the grass for the winter, protecting against injury. Do not fertilize with high nitrogen as the grass prepares for dormancy. Every fertilizer bag has 3 numbers on it, like Andersons 0-0-25, which is just potassium and perfect to apply for your last fertilization of the season (generally mid/late October). The first number on the bag is nitrogen, the second number is phosphorus, and the third number is potassium.

Apply a pre-emergent herbicide: When soil temperatures are consistently in the mid 50's apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent winter w**ds like poa from growing while your bermuda is dormant. (Any pre-emergent with the active ingredient "Prodiamine" will work. Andersons Barricade is a good option, this can be found online at andersonslawn.com).

Raise your mowing height: As the temperatures cool down, begin raising your height of cut to allow the grass to grow slightly longer. The added length provides insulation for the roots during winter.

Taper off watering: Start reducing your watering frequency in the early to mid-fall. When the nighttime temperatures are consistently in the low 50's turn watering off completely for at least 2 weeks to help the grass enter dormancy. Once completely dormant, water approximately 1/2 inch per month. DO NOT turn off watering completely for the entire winter.

Winter (November-February)

Allow dormancy: Your bermuda lawn will turn brown as it goes dormant for the winter. This is a natural, healthy process that allows the grass to rest and store energy for spring.

Minimal watering: Dormant bermuda grass needs very little water. If there is no rain, water the lawn lightly about once every four weeks to prevent the roots from drying out completely. About a half-inch of water is sufficient.

Infrequent mowing: You can mow the dormant lawn once a month to maintain a neat appearance if desired.

W**d management: In addition to the fall pre-emergent, spot-treat any winter w**ds that appear. Do not use glyphosate (Roundup) on a dormant lawn, this will damage it. Use a lawn safe selective post-emergent. In February apply another round of pre-emergent to help prevent the early spring w**ds.

*This is a general guideline and may not apply to every lawn or situation.

A1 Aeration

05/31/2026

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04/11/2026

03/22/2026

03/08/2026

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