09/09/2026
Khao Moo Dang: Portland has an abundance of “authentic” Asian cuisine, despite members of those communities being on the periphery of a homogeneously white society. In fact this sociological milieu, argued by some to be predisposed to blandness, is similar to the rest of society in that they like to overcompensate for their lack via consumption. But while the artist has little regard for the spectator, in the same way the chef should have little regard for the tasteless customer. This establishments longevity, being around since 1999, is a testament to this fact. They continue to offer casual, quick service, order at the counter and food comes to you. Wanting some spice, I opted for the Ba-Mhee Tom-Yum, a hot and sour broth with egg noodles, pork loin & belly, with yu choy green, and garnished with peanuts. The coconut heavy broth with heavy lemongrass and slight ginger flavor, had just a hint of fish sauce umami. The spice slightly tingle the tongue but was hard to notice with the sour notes balancing it out. The thinly sliced pork loin provided a meaty, yet tender chew, while the crunch and fat of the chicharron, alongside the peanut added a textural element. The skinny, ramen style egg noodles, were gone in a jiffy, while more of the sparse yu choy could have added some body to the dish. The egg did fill me up, but I needed to be quite liberal with my chili sauce and dry chili to get spice to my liking, and I do wish it had some raw thai chili to snack on. Overall, not a bad filling meal, but the fact remains that a $17 street style dollar noodle dish is a sickening indication of our current economic state. - - 7.75/10